Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
Olympia on Faneroménis opposite the football ground, and Akroyiali out beyond this on the Pérdhika road; indoor Titina,
opposite the Pýrgos Markéllou, is open year-round.
5
Ellinikon Seaside
Aktí Hatzí
10
T
22976
00448
or 693
61 11 213.
A big, enjoyable, somewhat touristy club on the
southern fringe of town, near the Cine Akroyiali, with
mainstream and Greek dance music.
Nightly in summer
from 10pm.
En Aigini
Spýrou Ródhi
44
T
22970 22483 or 694 85 33
060.
Upstairs bar with live Greek music from around 11pm
every weekend; they also host big-name visiting artists -
look out for posters, and book if you want to secure a table.
Fri-Sat from around 9pm, plus special events.
Maska
Mitropóleos 8
T
22970 22280.
Restored stone-
walled, high-ceilinged building that makes a pleasant spot
for a quiet, early drink - later there's often a DJ playing
oldies and classic dance tracks.
Daily from 9pm.
Across the island
Two main routes lead east towards Ayía Marína and the Temple of Aphaea: you can head
directly
inland
from Égina Town across the centre of the island or follow the
north coast
road via Souvála. Along this north coast there are plenty of scruffy beaches and clusters of
second-home development, between which is a surprisingly industrial landscape, with
boatyards and working ports. Souvála itself is something of an Athenian resort, with a
couple of direct daily ferries to Pireás but little other reason to stop.
Áyios Nektários
On the route inland you'll pass the modern convent of
Áyios Nektários
, whose vast
church is said to be the largest in Greece. The convent was founded by Saint Nektarios,
who died in 1920 and was canonized in 1961. His tomb lies in the chapel of the
original monastery, Ayía Triádha. Miracles surrounded Nektarios from the moment of
his death, when nurses put some of his clothing on an adjacent bed, occupied by a man
who was paralyzed; the patient promptly leapt up, praising God.
Paleohóra
Unrestricted • Free
On the hillside opposite Áyios Nektários is the ghost-town of
PALEOHÓRA
, the island
capital through the Middle Ages. Established in early Christian times as a refuge
against piracy, it thrived under the Venetians (1451-1540) but was destroyed by
Barbarossa in 1537. The Turks took over and rebuilt the town, but it was again
destroyed, this time by the Venetians, in 1654, and finally abandoned altogether in the
early nineteenth century. The place now consists of some thirty stone chapels dotted
across a rocky outcrop, an extraordinary sight from a distance. Little remains of the
town itself - when the islanders left, they simply dismantled their houses and moved
the masonry to newly founded Égina Town (see p.331). At the entrance a helpful map
shows the churches and the paths that lead up the hill between them; many are
semi-derelict or locked, but plenty are open too, and several preserve remains of
frescoes. Despite their apparent abandonment, many have candles burning inside, and
prayers left alongside the icons. If you climb right to the top you're rewarded with
wonderful views in all directions - you can also appreciate the defensive qualities of the
site, from which both coasts can be watched, yet which is almost invisible from the sea.
The Temple of Aphaea
Summer daily 8am-7pm, winter Tues-Sun 8am-5pm; museum Tues-Sun 8am-2.15pm • €4
The Doric
Temple of Aphaea
stands on a pine-covered hill 12km east of Égina Town, with
stunning views all around: Athens, Cape Soúnio, the Peloponnese and Ýdhra are all easily
made out. Built between 500 and 480 BC, it slightly predates the Parthenon, and is one of
the most complete and visually complex ancient buildings in Greece, its superimposed
arrays of columns and lintels evocative of an Escher drawing. Aphaea was a Cretan nymph
who, fleeing from the lust of King Minos, fell into the sea, was caught by some fishermen
