Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
5
The Argo-Saronic Islands
The rocky, partly volcanic Argo-Saronic islands, most of them barely an
olive's throw from the mainland, differ to a surprising extent not just from
the land they face but also from one another. The northernmost island of the
Argo-Saronic group, Salamína, is effectively a suburb of Pireás, with its
narrow strait, barely a kilometre across, crossed by a constant stream of
ferries. There's little to attract you on the other side, however, and the island
is covered only briefly here. Égina, important in antiquity and more or less
continually inhabited since then, is infinitely preferable: the most fertile of
the group, it is famous for its pistachio nuts and home to one of the finest
ancient temples in Greece. Tiny Angístri is often treated as little more than an
adjunct of Égina, but it's a lovely place in its own right, ideal for a few days'
complete relaxation. The three southerly islands - green Póros, tiny, car-free
Ýdhra and upmarket Spétses - are comparatively infertile, and rely on water
piped or transported in rusting freighters from the mainland.
Given their proximity to Athens and their beauty, the Argo-Saronics are hugely
popular destinations, with Égina (Aegina) almost becoming a city suburb at weekends.
Póros, Ýdhra (Hydra) and Spétses are similar in the summer, though their visitors
include a higher proportion of foreign tourists. More than any other group, these
islands are best out of season and midweek, when visitors (and prices) fall dramatically
and the port towns return to a quieter, more provincial pace. You'll also notice a
significant difference between Ýdhra and Spétses, the furthest of the islands, and those
closer to Athens - because of the distance, and because they're accessible only by
hydrofoil and catamaran rather than the cheaper conventional ferries, they're markedly
more expensive and exclusive, with significant expat populations. The islands were not
extensively settled until medieval times, when refugees from the mainland established
themselves here, adopting seagoing commerce (and piracy) as livelihoods. Today,
foreigners and Athenians have replaced locals in the depopulated harbour towns;
windsurfers, water-taxis and yachts are faint echoes of the massed warships, schooners
and
kaïkia
once at anchor.
GETTING THERE
THE ARGO-SARONIC
By ferry
Virtually all services from Pireás to the Argo-
Saronic islands leave from between gates E8 and E9; there
are ticket booths here. For all of these islands, hydrofoil or
catamaran services are faster and more frequent than
ferries, though they cost around twice as much. Friday
evening and Saturday morning sailings, as well as the
returns on Sunday night, can be very busy; for these, or if
you hope to bring a vehicle for the weekend on a regular
ferry, reserve your trip well in advance.
Tickets and agencies
Contact details for Pireás are as
follows (local island agencies are given in the island accounts):
Aegean Flying Dolphins (to Égina and Angístri)
T
210 412
1654,
W
aegeanlyingdolphins.gr; Alexandros (fast ferry to
Souvála and Ayía Marína, Égina)
T
210 482 1002,
W
alexcruises.com; Ayios Nektarios Eginas (ferry to Égina)
T
210 422 5625,
W
anes.gr; Hellenic Seaways (ferries,
hydrofoils and Flying Cat to all points)
T
210 419 9000,
W
hsw
.gr; Nova (ferry to Égina)
T
210 412 6181,
W
novaferries.gr.
The Battle of Salamis
p.329
Excursions to the Peloponnese
p.340
Ýdhra's festivals
p.345
Ýdhra's inland walks
p.346
Sotírios Anáryiros
p.348
Hiking across Spétses
p.351
