Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
taverna two blocks north of the clocktower, with a
delightful summer garden enclosed by old town walls.
Excellent main courses include lamb
exohikó
for €8-10.
Daily 8pm-2am.
Ta Fanarakia
Yeoryíou Stavroú 18
T
25410 73606.
Good all-round taverna just north of Kendrikí Platía where
you can tuck into meat or fish on its pavement seating.
Daily 11am-2am.
DRINKING AND NIGHTLIFE
Xánthi's
nightlife
is focused on Vasilíssis Sofías, which forks of Paleológou at the little park sporting a bust of war hero
Antíkas, and around the Kendrikí Platía itself. There's a new multiplex
cinema
in the Cosmos Centre on Mihaïl Karaolí,
200m down from the square.
Kyverneio
Vassilíssis Sofías 4
T
25410 77577.
Boasting
a huge, rambling terrace and enormous interior, this bar is
the place to be for Xánthi's trendy crowd. Occasional DJ
sets.
Daily 11am-late.
North of Xánthi
Much of the countryside north of Xánthi, towards the Bulgarian border, is a
military controlled area, dotted with signs denoting the fact. If you venture up into
the western Rodhópi range here, the main reward is some magnificent scenery
around
Stavroúpoli
. There's not much arable land amid the wild, forested hills,
and what there is - down in the river valleys - is devoted entirely to tobacco,
hand-tilled by the
Pomaks
, who tend to keep themselves to themselves. Owing to
the modest increase in material prosperity since the 1980s, the Pomak villages have
mostly lost their traditional architecture to concrete multistorey apartments,
although the mosque at rambling
Smínthi
, 14km due north of Xánthi, is still
blessed with a tall, graceful minaret.
Oréo
, 6km up a side road northwest of
Smínthi, is dramatically set on a steep hillside with cloud-covered peaks behind
and terraces falling away to the riverbed.
4
Stavroúpoli
Set among some of the region's most inviting scenery - deep gorges, fir-draped crags
and high waterfalls, more like the French Jura than a typically Greek landscape - neat
little
STAVROÚPOLI
, 27km northwest of Xánthi,
is doing its very best to attract tourists,
so far mainly Greeks. Having suffered a major population drain during the decades of
mass emigration, the village, with its immaculate cobbled streets, shady central platía,
complete with traditional café, and well-restored Thracian-style houses, is showing sure
signs of a revival. Some 30km northwest of Xánthi along the scenic Dhráma road, it is
conveniently placed for visiting the most spectacular stretch of the Néstos River, whose
meanders and rapids lend themselves to safe rafting and canoeing. The town has a
delightful little
Folklore Museum
(ask around for the curator; no fixed opening hours),
signposted from the town centre, a proudly displayed collection in a restored house full
of local memorabilia donated by residents - everything from embroidered bodices to
an ancient record player.
ARRIVAL AND ACTIVITIES
STAVROÚPOLI
By bus
From Xánthi (Mon-Sat 6, Sun 4; 35min).
Activities
The best source of information about kayaking,
mountain bikes and horseriding in the region is the
Oinos
taverna (see p.318).
ACCOMMODATION
Nemesis
2km south of Stavroúpoli
T
25420 21005,
W
hotelnemesis.gr.
Oddly resembling a medieval castle,
this hotel has simple but comfo
rtab
le rooms and a
swimming pool. Breakfast included.
€60
Ì
Xenios Zeus
Just off the main square
T
&
F
25420
22444.
An old Thracian house with traditional decor. A
roaring fireplace in the lou
nge
keeps guests warm during
winter. Breakfast included.
€45
