The northern mainland - The Rough Guide to Greece - page 304

ATHOS ETIQUETTE
It's worth remembering that the monks on Athos are expecting religious pilgrims , not
tourists. Each monastery varies a good deal in their handling of visitors; signs at some
institutions specifically forbid you from attending services or sharing meals with the monks.
Others put themselves at the disposal of visitors of whatever creed (though you may well find
yourself being encouraged to switch to Greek Orthodoxy!). Yet, wherever you stay there's a
certain amount of etiquette to observe.
You must reach the monastery where you will overnight before dark , since they all lock
their front gates at sunset - which would leave you outside with the wild boars. Upon arrival
you should ask for the guestmaster ( arhondáris ), who will proffer the traditional welcome of a
tsípouro, loukoúmi (Turkish delight) and often a Greek coffee, before showing you to your bed.
Most guestmasters speak good English.
You should be fully dressed at all times, even when going from dormitory to bathroom;
shorts should not be worn anywhere on the peninsula, nor hats inside monasteries. Swimming
is o cially prohibited, so if you are tempted, choose a cove where nobody can see you, and
certainly don't skinny-dip. Smoking is forbidden, though it is often tolerated outside the
monastery walls; it would be criminal to smoke on the trail, however, given the chronic fire
danger. Singing, whistling and raised voices are taboo; as is standing with your hands behind
your back or in your pockets. If you want to photograph monks you should always ask
permission, though photography is forbidden altogether in many monasteries, and video
cameras are completely banned from the Mountain.

MONASTERY ACCOMMODATION
Theoretically, all of the twenty major and four minor monasteries that receive guests require advance reservations,
although there are several that do not apply this rule strictly. This is noted, along with contact details for all the institutions
below. Just about all the most interesting monasteries, however, do require booking, which can be done up to six months
in advance. Where hours are denoted, it is best to call during these times on Monday to Saturday but you may have to
persevere for an answer, and don't even bother trying on Sunday or any major holy day.
Accommodation is typically in dormitories , and fairly spartan, but there's invariably a shower down the hall (often hot)
and you're always given sheets and blankets.

4

one, decorated with exterior frescoes of the Cretan school,
was usurped during the 1830s by the huge upper one.
Ayíou Pandeleïmonos T & F 23770 23252; 10am-
noon. Nearly 2hr from Dháfni and 1hr from Xenofóndos.
Also known as “Róssiko”, as many of its monks are Russian
and it sports onion-shaped domes. The main attraction is
the enormous bell over the refectory, the second largest in
the world.
Xiropotámou T 23770 23251, F 23770 23733;
10am-12.30pm. Under an hour from Dháfni. Most of its
construction and church frescoes date from the eighteenth
century. Here again non-Orthodox are kept segregated
from the faithful at meal times.
Símonos Pétras T 23770 23254, F 23770 23707;
1-3pm. Best reached by boat. Though entirely rebuilt after
an early twentieth-century fire, “Simópetra”, as it is known,
is perhaps the most visually striking monastery on Athos.
With its multiple storeys, ringed by wooden balconies
overhanging sheer 300m drops, it resembles a Tibetan
lamasery.
Osíou Grigoríou T 23770 23668, F 23770 23671;
11am-1pm. An hour and a half from Símonos Pétras.
Hovering closely above the sea and renowned for the

THE SOUTHWESTERN COAST
MONASTERIES
Zográfou T & F 23770 23247. Almost an hour from its
harbour, the most inland monastery is inhabited by
Bulgarian and Macedonian monks. The name derives from
a legend that the founders left out a wooden panel, upon
which a painting of St George appeared. Non-Orthodox and
believers are segregated but walk-in guests are usually
accepted.
Konstamonítou T & F 23770 23228. Nearly 2hr from
Zográfou and 45min from its own harbour. Set amid thick
woodland, it's as humble, bare and poor as you'd expect
from the last-ranking monastery. Non-Orthodox and
believers are segregated but guests are happily taken on
spec.
Dhohiaríou T & F 23770 23245. Nearly 2hr from
Konstamonítou. Picturesque monastery with lofty church
nearly filling the courtyard. The best frescoes are in the
long, narrow refectory, which has sea views.
Xenofóndos T 23770 23633, F 23770 23631. Only
30min from Dhohiaríou. The enormous, sloping, irregularly
shaped court, expanded upwards in the nineteenth century,
is unique in possessing two main churches. The small, older