Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
part of Greece, all foreign monks must adopt Greek citizenship and the Greek civil
government is represented by an appointed governor and a small police force.
The monasteries
Obviously you can't hope to visit all twenty monasteries during a short stay, though if
you're able to extend the basic four-day permit period you can see the most prominent
foundations. Each monastery has a distinct place in the Athonite hierarchy : Meyístis
Lávras holds the prestigious first place, Konstamonítou ranks twentieth. All other
settlements are attached to one or other of the twenty “ruling” monasteries; the
dependencies range from a skíti , or minor monastic community (either a group of
houses, or a cloister-like compound scarcely distinguishable from a monastery),
through a kellí (a sort of farmhouse) to an isyhastírio (a solitary hermitage, often a
cave). Numerous laymen - including many Muslim Albanians of late - also live on
Athos, mostly employed as agricultural or manual labourers by the monasteries.
For simplicity's sake it is easiest to divide the monasteries according to which coast of the
peninsula they belong to, southwestern or northeastern; our listings (see p.308), which
give brief descriptions of the main highlights, reflect this division. The institutions of each
coast are described in geographical order, starting with those closest to the mainland. Apart
from the four skítes that accept overnight visitors and thus merit their own entry, all other
dependencies are mentioned in the account of their ruling monastery.
ARRIVAL AND DEPARTURE
MOUNT ATHOS
By ferry All boats to Athos are run by Ayiorítikes Grammés
( T 23770 71149, W www.agioreitikes-grammes.com). Most
visitors arrive at the main port of Dháfni on the southwest
coast. From here the small Ayia Anna sails round the southern
tip of the peninsula as far as Kafsokalývia, stopping at all the
monastic communities en route; advance booking is advisable.
Each monastery has a small harbour annexe ( arsanás ) which
can be a considerable distance from the monastery itself.
From Ouranoúpoli The regular ferry sails at 9.45am as far
as Dháfni (90 min; €7), stopping at each harbour or coastal
monastery en route. There are also faster boats at 8.45am
and 10.40am (45min; €12) direct to Dháfni.
From Ierissós From Ierissós, a single fast boat leaves at
8.35am daily and travels along the northeast shore as far as
the monastery of Megístis Lavras (2hr; €18); it may not stop
at every harbour on the way but is guaranteed to halt at the
Hilandharíou police post for the issue of permits.
From Thessaloníki To reach Athos from Thessaloníki, first
take a Halkidhikí KTEL bus (see p.275) to Ouranoúpoli or
Ierissós (see p.302).
4
INFORMATION
Permits Only ten permits per day are issued to non-
Orthodox visitors to Athos (120 for baptized Greek Orthodox),
so it is wise to apply as far in advance as possible (six months
maximum), especially for summer or Easter visits. The first
step is to contact the Pilgrims' Bureau in Thessaloníki
( T 2310 252 578, F 2310 222 424, E pilgrimsbureau
@c-lab.gr) at Egnatía 109. Staff speak English but walk-in
visits are not encouraged. Once you have your booking you
must reconfirm two weeks before the intended date of entry.
Last-minute permits can sometimes be obtained if there's a
cancellation, but that leaves you with the problem of not
having a reservation at any of the monasteries.
Fees and extensions You pay for and receive your permit
(€30; students €20) on the day of entry itself, either from
the pilgrims' bureau in Ouranoúpoli, if sailing from there, or
at the police post at Hilandharíou, if sailing from Ierissós;
make sure you have your passport with you. The permit
entitles you to stay for three nights and four days, during
which time board and meals at the monasteries are free.
Many visitors apply for an extension. This can theoretically
be done at the Ayía Epistasía (Holy Superintendancy) in
Karyés, the picturesque administrative capital; two or three
extra days are normally granted, and your chances are
much better out of season.
GETTING AROUND
By car Landrover minibuses meet the larger ferries at
Dháfni and other harbours, to carry people to Karyés and
the more inland monasteries accessible by road; they can
be expensive and, if they're driven by lay-workers, you
should establish a price beforehand.
By foot Most foreign visitors prefer to walk between
monasteries, preferably armed with the excellent map by
Road Editions (1:50,000), which includes an informative
48-page booklet. Even with that, it's wise to check the
current condition of trails at each monastery.
FROM TOP ÉDHESSA (P.288), KARYÉS, MOUNT ATHOS (ABOVE) >
 
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