Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
THE BIRDS OF PRÉSPA
The lakes are home to relatively few birds of prey but you should see a fair number of egrets,
cormorants, crested grebes and pelicans. This is one of the few breeding sites of both the
white and Dalmatian pelican, which nest in the spring, with the chicks out and about by
summer. They feed partly on the large numbers of snakes, which include vipers, whip snakes
and harmless water snakes which you may encounter while swimming. Observation towers
are available at Vromolímni and near Áyios Ahíllios, but dawn spent anywhere at the edge of
the reedbeds with a pair of binoculars will be immensely rewarding, though bear in mind that
you are not allowed to boat or wade into the reeds.
Mikrolímni
MIKROLÍMNI
, 5km up a side road off the main route into the valley, is an extremely
sleepy hamlet that might be your first conceivable stop. In the evening, you can look
towards sunsets over reedbeds and the snake-infested Vidhronísi (or Vitrinítsi) islet,
though swimming isn't good here, or anywhere else on Mikrí Préspa for that matter.
Return to the main road, which reaches a T-junction 16km from the main Flórina-
Kastoriá highway, on the spit which separates the larger and smaller lakes. It's probable
that at one time there was just one lake here, but now there's a 4m elevation difference.
Bearing right at the junction leads within 4km to Áyios Yermanós; the left option splits
again at the west end of the spit, bearing south towards the islet of Áyios Ahíllios or
northwest towards the hamlet of Psarádhes.
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Áyios Yermanós
ÁYIOS YERMANÓS
, 4km to the right at the T-junction when the main road reaches
Megáli Préspa, is a large village of tile-roofed houses, overlooking a patch of the lake in
the distance and adjoining the hamlet of
Lemós
. It's worth making the trip up just to
see two tiny late Byzantine churches, whose frescoes, dating from the time when the
place belonged to the bishopric of Ohrid, display a marked Macedonian influence.
Inside the lower church,
Áyios Athanásios
, seldom open, you can glimpse a dog-faced
St Christopher
among a line of saints opposite the door. Far more impressive, however,
is the tiny, eleventh-century parish church of
Áyios Yermanós
up on the square, hidden
behind a new monster awkwardly tacked onto it in 1882. The Byzantine structure has
its own entrance, and the frescoes, skilfully retouched in 1743, can be lit; the switch is
hidden in the narthex.
Koúla beach
At the far end of the wide causeway dividing the two lakes, 4km to the left from the
T-junction, is
Koúla beach
, a motley cluster of what passes for tourist development
hereabouts: a patch of reed-free sand from where you can swim in Megáli Préspa; a free
but basic camping area, now bereft of its water tap; plus an army post.
Psarádhes
Reached by 6km of panoramic corniche road from a signposted turning near Koúla
beach, the rickety village of
PSARÁDHES
makes for a pleasant stroll. Unfortunately, the
wonderful old houses lining the lanes are increasingly derelict. It is sometimes possible
to take a short
boat excursion
out onto the lake to see some of the lakeside monuments
and churches, but this is not the best way to spot birdlife; there is no fixed schedule, so
ask around
.
Áyios Ahíllios
Two kilometres directly south of Koúla beach, the road soon brings you to a floating
footbridge, 1500m in length, which leads across to the islet of
Áyios Ahíllios
and its
impoverished, almost deserted hamlet. A five-minute walk from the footbridge is the
