Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
THE FIRE
WALKERS OF LANGADHÁS
On May 21, the feast day of SS Constantine and Helen, villagers at
LANGADHÁS
, 20km north
of Thessaloníki, perform a ritual barefoot dance across a bed of burning coals known as the
anastenária
. While it has been suggested that they are remnants of a Dionysiac cult, devotees
fiercely assert a purely Christian tradition. This seems to relate to a fire, around 1250, in the
Thracian village of Kostí (now in Bulgaria), from where many of the inhabitants of Langadhás
originate. Holy icons were heard groaning from the flames and were rescued by villagers, who
emerged miraculously unburnt from the blazing church. The icons, passed down by their
families, are believed to ensure protection during the fire walking. Equally important is piety
and purity of heart: it is said that no one with any harboured grudges or unconfessed sins can
pass through the coals unscathed.
Whatever the origin, the rite is still performed most years - lately as something of a tourist
attraction, with an admission charge and repeat performances over the next two days. It is
nevertheless eerie and impressive, beginning around 7pm with the lighting of a cone of
hardwood logs. A couple of hours later their embers are raked into a circle and, just before
complete darkness, a traditional Macedonian
daoúli
drummer and two lyra players precede a
group of about sixteen women and men into the arena. These
anastenáridhes
(literally
“groaners”), in partial trance, then shu
e across the coals for about a quarter of an hour,
somehow without requring a trip to hospital at the end.
Kaftantzoglou stadium is both the largest and most central.
Hospitals
For minor trauma, use the Yeniko Kendriko
at
Ethnikís Amynis 41; otherwise, head for the Ippokration at
Konstandinopóleos 49, in the eastern part of town.
Internet access
Most hotels and many cafés offer free
wi-fi and there are still a good few cafés with terminals;
two of the least noisy are
Enterprise
at Dhimitríou Goúnari
52 and
Planet
at Svólou 55.
Laundries
Bianca,
Antoniádhou 3, near the Arch of
Galerius (quick service and long hours); Freskadha, Filíppou
105, beside the Rotónda; Ion, Karaóli Dhimitríou 52 (good
dry cleaning).
Post o
ce
Main branch is at V Iraklíou 38 (Mon-Fri
7.30am-8pm, Sat 7.30am-2pm, Sun 9am-1.30pm).
There are other post offices around the city: the most useful
ones are at Koundouriótou (by the port), Ethnikís Amynis
9A and Ayíou Dhimitríou 98.
Travel agents
Most general sales agents and consolidators
cluster around Platía Eleftherías, especially on Kalapotháki,
Komninón, Níkis and Mitropóleos. Students and under-27s
should try Nouvelles Frontières at Kalapotháki 8 (
T
2310
237 700) or Sunflight at Tsimiskí 114 (
T
2310 280 500). For
cheap buses to Turkey, try Bus and Atlantic Tours,
Aristotélous 10, 4th Floor (
T
2310 226 036). Mountain
trekking and other outdoor expeditions are offered by
Trekking Hellas, Mitropóleos 60 (
T
2310 264 082).
4
Pella
PELLA
, 40km west of Thessaloníki, was the capital of Macedonia throughout its
greatest period and the first capital of Greece after Philip II forcibly unified the country
around 338 BC. It was founded some sixty years earlier by King Archelaos, who
transferred the royal Macedonian court here from Aegae (see p.287). At that time it lay
at the head of a broad lake, connected to the Thermaïkós gulf by a navigable river. The
royal palace was decorated by the painter
Zeuxis
and was said to be the greatest artistic
showplace since the time of Classical Athens.
Euripides
wrote and produced his last
plays at the court, and here, too,
Aristotle
was to tutor the young Alexander the Great
- born, like his father Philip II, in the city.
The site today is a worthwhile stopover en route to Édhessa and western Macedonia
or as a day-trip from Thessaloníki. Its main treasures are a series of pebble mosaics,
some in the museum, others
in situ
.
The site
June-Sept Mon 1.30-8pm, Tues-Sun 8am-8pm; Oct-May Tues-Sun 8.30am-3pm • €6 including museum •
T
23820 31160 • The site of
Pella lies on the main Thessaloníki-Édhessa road and is served by half-hourly buses
Today Pella's
ruins
stand in the middle of a broad expanse of plain. It was located by
chance finds in 1957 and as yet has only been partially excavated. The
acropolis
at Pella
