Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
The northern mainland
Greece's northern mainland is dominated by the provinces of
MACEDONIA
and
THRACE
. Each has been part of the Greek state for less than a century
- Macedonia (Makedhonía) was surrendered by the Turks in 1913 while
Greek sovereignty over western Thrace (Thráki) was not confirmed until 1923
and there is still a sizeable ethnic minority population (see box, p.315).
Consequently, they stand slightly apart from the rest of the country, an
impression reinforced for visitors by architecture and scenery, customs and
climate that seem more Balkan than typically Mediterranean. In fact the
region is relatively little known to outsiders, perhaps thanks to its capricious
climate, lack of beach resorts and few charter flights. Yet northern Greece is
one of the country's most rewarding areas to visit.
Mount Olympus
, mythical abode of the gods, is a tempting target for hikers, while
Mount Áthos
, a Byzantine ecclesiastical idyll, is an unmissable attraction (at least for
men, who are the only ones allowed here). The sybaritic capital of Macedonia,
Thessaloníki
, and the region's other main city,
Kavála
, are also intriguing places to visit,
the former providing access to the beach-fringed peninsula of
Halkidhikí
. he north
also has more outstandingly beautiful spots, especially the
Préspa National Park
in
rugged western Macedonia and the birdwatchers' heaven of the
Kerkíni wetlands
to the
east. The lakeside city of
Kastoriá
and the clifftop town of
Édhessa
are among Greece's
most beguiling urban centres, thanks to a belated but determined attempt to restore
some fine old buildings. Admittedly, the region's ancient sites are relatively modest,
though there is one notable exception: the awe-inspiring Macedonian tombs discovered
at
Vergina
in the 1970s, near the pleasant city of Véria. Not so well known are the
Macedonian and Roman sites at
Pella
, with its fabulous mosaics, and at
Philippi
, St
Paul's first stop in Greece. Few travellers on their way to Bulgaria or Turkey stray from
the dull trunk road through Thrace, but the well-preserved town of
Xánthi
, a trio of
minor archeological sites, the waterfowl reserves of the
Évros Delta
and the
Dhadhiá
Forest
, with its black vultures, deserve more than just a meal stop.
Alexandhroúpoli
is
dull but rewards the curious with one of the best ethnological museums in the whole of
Greece.
GETTING AROUND
4
NORTHERN MAINLAND
By train and bus
Public transport in the north is
somewhat limited. A few trains link some of the urban
centres, but the railway line east from Thessaloníki curls
unhelpfully inland, bypassing Kavála altogether and
leaving buses or your own transport as the only alternatives
for travelling along the coast.
By car
The road system has improved beyond recognition
in recent years, however, with the completion of the “Via
Egnatia” highway, which now provides an uninterrupted
link between the west coast and the Bulgarian and Turkish
borders, as well as connecting to the upgraded Athens-
Thessaloníki motorway.
Ottoman Thessaloníki
p.272
Byzantine churches
p.273
The Jews of Thessaloníki
p.274
The fire-walkers of Langadhás
p.279
Climbing Mount Olympus
p.283
Little Jerusalem
p.286
The birds of Préspa
p.291
Kastoriá's churches
p.294
Macedonian cavemen
p.296
Mount Athos time
p.305
Athos etiquette
p.308
1923 and all that
p.315
