Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
Ósios Loukás monastery
Daily: May 3-Sept 15 8am-6pm; rest of year 8am-5pm • €3
Some 6km east of Dhístomo (which by bus is 35min east of Delphi), the
monastery of
Ósios Loukás
was a precursor of the final flourish of
Byzantine art
found in the great
churches at Mystra in the Peloponnese (see p.167). From an architectural or decorative
standpoint it ranks as one of the great buildings of medieval Greece; the remote setting
is exquisite as well, especially in February when the many local almond trees bloom.
Approaching along the last stretch of road, Ósios Loukás suddenly appears on its shady
terrace, overlooking the highest summits of the Elikónas range and a beautiful broad
valley. The complex comprises two domed churches, the larger
katholikón
of Ósios
Loukás (a local beatified hermit, Luke of Stiri, not the Evangelist) and the adjacent
chapel of
Theotókos
. A few monks still live in the cells around the courtyard, but the
monastery is essentially a museum, with a souvenir shop on the grounds.
ARRIVAL AND INFORMATION
ÓSIOS LOUKÁS
3
By bus
There are hourly daily buses
from Dhelfí to
Dhístomo (it's on the Livadhiá - Athens line; 35min), but
nothing on to Stíri, the village 3.5km west of the monastery
(the last 2.5km on a spur road), so you might have to walk,
take a taxi or hitch.
Monastery Shop
Besides selling souvenirs, this shop
offers sandwiches and dozens of varieties of typically Greek
sesame-based snacks. There are tables and chairs on the
beautiful terrace, so you can take in the sweeping view
while you refresh yourself.
The katholikón
The design of the
katholikón
, built around 1040 to a cross-in-square plan, strongly
influenced later churches at Dhafní and at Mystra. Externally it is unassuming, with
rough brick-and-stone walls topped by a well-proportioned octagonal dome. The interior,
however, is rich, with multicoloured-marble walls contrasting with gold-background
mosaics on the high ceiling. Light filtering through alabaster windows reflects from the
curved mosaic surfaces onto the marble walls and back, bringing out subtle shading.
he
mosaics
were damaged by an earthquake in 1659, replaced at many points by
unremarkable frescoes, but surviving examples testify to their glory. On the right as you
enter the narthex are a majestic
Resurrection
and
Thomas Probing Christ's Wound
. he
mosaic of the
Niptir
(
Washing of the Apostles' Feet
) on the far left (north side) of the
narthex is one of the finest here, the expressions of the Apostles ranging between
diffidence and surprise. This humanized approach is again illustrated by the
Baptism
,
up in the northwest squinch (curved surface supporting the dome). Here Jesus reaches
for the cross amid a swirling mass of water, an illusion of depth created by the
curvature of the wall. On other squinches, the Christ Child reaches out to the High
Priest Simeon in
The Presentation
, while in
The Nativity
, angels predominate rather
than the usual shepherds. The church's original
frescoes
are confined to vaulted
chambers at the corners of the cross plan and, though less imposing than the mosaics,
employ subtle colours, notably in
Christ Walking towards the Baptism
.
The Theotókos chapel
The chapel of
Theotókos
(“God-Bearing”, ie the Virgin Mary), built shortly after Luke's
death, is nearly a century older than the
katholikón
. From outside it overshadows the
main church with
elaborate brick decoration
culminating in a marble-panelled drum,
but the interior seems mean by comparison, enlivened only by a couple of fine
Corinthian capitals and the original floor mosaic, its colours now faint.
The crypt
Finally, do not miss the vivid
frescoes
in the
crypt
of the
katholikón
, entered on the
lower south side of the building. Bring a torch, since illumination is limited to three
spotlights to preserve the colours of the post-Byzantine frescoes.
