Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
BASSAE'S MISSING METOPES
Many of the Bassae temple's stunning
metopes
, the marble frieze sculptures, as well as other
fine pieces, were removed and installed in London's
British Museum
in 1814-15. Reportedly,
an English archeologist bribed the local Ottoman pasha, who evidently did not consider
preservation of the works of any importance. The metopes powerfully depict the battles of the
Amazons, Lapiths and Centaurs, and they are on display in a special room with the
controversial
Elgin Marbles
(see p.70), which, under similar circumstances, were boxed up
and shipped to Britain in 1812.
2
major hill town through the years of Turkish occupation and the first century of
independent Greece. It remains quite untouched, with wooden houses spilling down to
a stream, whose clear ice-cold headwaters are channelled into a fountain set within a
plane tree in the central platía.
The Temple of Apollo Epikourios
Summer daily 8am-7.30pm • €3 • To get there, take the Kréstena road out of town and then, almost immediately, turn of to the left to
begin the climb up
Some 14km into the mountains south of Andhrítsena stands a
World Heritage Site
,
the fifth-century BC
Temple of Apollo
at
BASSAE
(Vásses), occupying one of the
remotest, highest (1131m) and arguably most spectacular
sites
in Greece. In addition,
it is one of the best-preserved Classical monuments in the country and is considered
to have been designed by Iktinos, architect of the Parthenon and the Hephaisteion in
Athens.
There's just one problem: nowadays to protect it from the elements during its
complicated
restoration
, the magnificent temple is swathed in a gigantic grey marquee
suspended from metal girders; and what's left of its entablature and frieze lies dissected
in neat rows on the ground to one side. Panels make clear that the work is badly
needed to keep the whole thing from simply tumbling, stone by stone, into the valley it
overlooks - and the marquee is quite a sight in itself - but visitors are likely to feel a bit
disappointed, at least until you enter the tent and are awe-struck by the sheer scale and
majesty of the thing, even more so as you walk all around it.
ACCOMMODATION
ARCADIAN HILL TOWNS
KARÍTENA
Vrenthi
T
27910 31650.
Good value and located on the
right just before the main square: ask about their rooms to
rent at their homel
y caf
é/taverna on the left just beyond.
Breakfast included.
€50
DHIMITSÁNA
Ì
Amanites
T
27950 31090,
W
amanites.gr.
This
beautiful stone building stands prominently just above the
main road and offers very comfortable rooms with
spectacular views over the town and valley. The lovely
owners are always ready to help,
and
the breakfast,
included, features home-made treats.
€60
Dimitsana
T
27950 31518,
W
dimitsanahotel.gr.
This
refurbished, woodsy-luxurious and popular hotel, 1km out
on the road to Stemnítsa, is easiest for parking. The cosy
rooms, some with oriental rugs, have balconies with gorge
views, and wi-fi.
i. B
reakfast, with fresh-squeezed orange
juice, included.
€70
Ì
Xenonas Kazakoy
T
27950 31660,
W
xenonas
kazakou.gr.
Up from the main road and winding around
past the old church, this magnificent property beats them
all, for spacious comfort, friendliness, and especially the
fantastic breakfast (included and cooked to order by one of
the charming, know
ledg
eable owners). Good wi-fi. Rates
are higher in winter.
€70
STEMNÍTSA
Ì
Mpelleiko
T
&
F
27950 81286,
W
mpelleiko.gr.
High above the town, overlooking the whole
mountainous scene, stands this marvellous stone
mansion, beautifully converted into a unique guesthouse.
The rooms are all different and very cosy, with amenities
such as
wi-fi.
and CD players. Hearty buffet breakfast
included.
€95
Trikolonion
T
27950 29500,
W
countryclub.gr.
Out of
town to the east is this very comfortable luxury resort in a
converted nineteenth-century building. Rooms have every
amenity including fast internet and quality beauty
products,
and t
here's a gym/spa and free parking. Breakfast
included.
€150
