Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
ACROSS THE LANGÁDHA PASS
The remote and wild
Langádha pass
, the 60km road over the
Taïyetos
mountain range from
Spárti to Kalamáta, is a worthwhile scenic drive. With long uninhabited sections, it unveils a
constant drama of peaks and precipitous drops, magnificent at all times but startling at
sunrise; the pine forests suffered extensive damage in recent fires, but are showing signs of a
comeback. This route was taken by Telemachus in the
Odyssey
on his way from Nestor's palace
near Pýlos to that of Menelaus at Sparta, taking him a day by chariot. The road climbs steeply
into the mountains and enters the
Gorge of Langádha
, a wild sequence of hairpins. The rock
of Keádhas, high above the southern side of the road a short distance from the village, is
where the Spartans used to leave their sick or puny babies to die. Above Keádhas is a
climbing park
with marked routes for rock-climbers. At the
pass
, tracks and paths head
north and south along the mountain ridge - peaks up to 1900m are accessible in a day's
outing. On the Kalamáta side you enter the
Nédhondas Gorge
for the final zigzagging
descent.
Buses
take four hours to cross the pass, including the connection at Artemísia.
2
ACCOMMODATION AND EATING NÉOS MYSTRÁS
In general, it's worth paying a bit extra to stay in Néos Mystrás, rather than Spárti, just for the setting, relative quiet, and
easy access to the site - though you will need to book ahead, or arrive early in the day, to find a place.
Byzantion
T
27310 83309,
E
byzanhtl@otenet.gr.
This modern hotel has been recently refurbished and is very
pleasant, with wi-fi, a garden and pool, and friendly staff.
Rooms are fairly large and have balconies, some with
wonderful
view
s of the ancient site. Breakfast included.
April-Oct.
€50
O Ellinas
T
27310 82666.
A pleasant taverna just off the
main square, with a leafy terrace on the side. The food is
standard fare, but reliably good; for something a bit
different, try the pasta with beef (€8) or the cod fillet with
garlic sauce (€12), both house specialities.
Daily lunch &
dinner.
Arcadia
ARCADIA
(Arkadhía), the heartland province of the Peloponnese, contains some of the
most beautiful landscapes in Greece. Dramatic hills are crowned by a string of medieval
towns, and the occasional Classical antiquity. Beautiful
Karítena
is a picture-postcard hill
town, but the best area of all is around
Stemnítsa
and
Dhimitsána
, where walkers are
rewarded with the luxuriant
Loúsios Gorge
. Another hill town,
Andhrítsena
, attracts
archeology buffs with the nearby
Temple of Bassae
, still spectacular though tented for
restoration. En route, if approaching from
Trípoli
, you may also pass through
Megalópoli
,
both mainly transport hubs. Drivers should be aware that Arcadia's highways, some of the
broadest and emptiest in the Peloponnese, are shared with sheep- and goat-herds moving
their flocks.
Wild fires
in 2000 and 2007 severely damaged the area's oak and fir
woodland, though recovery is evident and the legendary beauty still holds, especially in
spring, when the slopes are bright yellow with masses of broom plants.
Trípoli
TRÍPOLI
is a major crossroads of the Peloponnese. Set in a huge upland plain, and
surrounded by spectacular mountains, the Arcadian capital doesn't live up to
expectations: it's a large, modern town, and home to one of the country's biggest army
barracks. It doesn't pander to tourism and has few obvious attractions, although the
Panarcadic Archeological Museum
, Evangelistriás 6 (Tues-Sun 8.30am-3pm; €2),
signposted off Vassiléos Yeoryíou (which leads off the central square, Platía
Kolokotróni) and housed in a Neoclassical building with a beautiful rose garden, makes
a pleasant diversion; the collection includes finds from much of Arcadia, from
Neolithic to Roman.
