Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
A SPARTAN UPBRINGING
As the blood-spattered 2007 film
300
would seem to confirm, the famously tough Spartans
can still stir the imagination. In part this stems from their legendary upbringing. Under a
system known as the
agoge
, Spartan boys were rigorously trained by the state to develop
physical toughness, loyalty and cunning. Babies judged unlikely to make the grade were left
exposed on the slopes of Mount Taïyetos. Other boys were taken from their families at the age
of seven to live in barracks. They were habitually underfed, so that they would learn to live off
the land. At the age of twelve, they were required to form a sexual bond with a young Spartan
soldier, who would act as their mentor. At eighteen, they would become provisional members
of the army until the age of thirty, when it would finally be decided if they were worthy of
Spartan
citizenship
. At this point they were expected to marry and produce offspring. The
system was much admired in the ancient world, and boys from other city-states were
sometimes sent here for their education.
2
ARRIVAL AND INFORMATION
SPÁRTI AND AROUND
By bus
The main bus terminal is on the eastern edge of
town at the far end of Lykoúrgou, though to reach the
centre, the locals alight earlier on Lykoúrgou, near the
archeological museum.
Destinations
: Athens (8 daily; 3hr 15min); Kalamáta
(changing at Artemisia, 2 daily; 1hr); Monemvasiá (3 daily,
2 on Sun, changing at Moláï; 2hr 30min-3hr); Mystra (11
daily, 4 on Sun; 15-30min); Neápoli (6 daily; 3hr); Pýrgos
Dhiroú (1 daily; 2hr 30min); Trípoli (4 daily; 1hr);
Yeroliménas (2 daily; 3hr); Yíthio (6 daily; 1hr).
By car
Parking tickets need to be bought for certain times
in the central area.
Information
Most of the banks are on Paleológou. There
is a good bookshop
and map stockist near the corner of
Paleológou and Lykoúrgou.
ACCOMMODATION
There are usually enough
hotels
to go around, many of them on the main avenue, Paleológou, where noise can be a
problem. A better idea is to plan on staying at more tranquil
Néos Mystrás
, a stone's throw from the Byzantine ruins.
There's also a campsite nearby.
Maniatis
Paleológou 72-76
T
27310 22665,
W
maniatishotel.gr.
Across the street from the museum,
this modern hotel - all glass and metal with blond wood
trim -
has good facilities: four lounge areas, a bar and two
restaurants. Rooms have spotless decor, a/c and so
me hav
e
views of the countryside. Buffet breakfast included.
€100
Sparta Inn
Thermopýlon 105
T
27310 21021,
W
spartainn.gr.
This property is huge and modern, with
a bar, a restaurant, a roof garden and two swimming
pools. All rooms have a/c and balconies, some with views
of distan
t h
ills. Substantial reductions for online
bookings.
€70
EATING AND DRINKING
Most
restaurants
and
tavernas
are also concentrated on Paleológou. The most consistently popular
music bars
are
Ministry
opposite the
Maniatis
hotel, or
Enellax
along the side street behind
Ministry
.
Diethnes
Paleológou 105
T
27310 28636.
Long-
established and reliably good, with an extensive menu of
traditional dishes; the interior lacks atmosphere, but a
delightful garden behind with orange and lemon trees
compensates. €10-15/person.
Daily 8am-midnight.
Dionysos
Garden
T
27310 81201.
Located
1500m out
on the road towards Mystra, serves up slightly more
expensive dishes with style (expect about €20/person),
with tables outdoors in summer. Try their signature baked
chicken.
Closed Sun & Mon dinner.
Mystra
Daily: summer 8am-8pm; winter 8am-2pm • €5, good for entrance the following day, too
MYSTRA
is one of the most exciting and dramatic historic sites that the Peloponnese
can offer - a glorious, airy place, hugging a very steep, 280m foothill of Taïyetos.
Winding up the lushly vegetated hillside is a remarkably intact Byzantine town that
