Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
freshwater springs gush into the bay, keeping it unusually clean, if a bit cold. A
ten-minute walk to the north of Kalogriá beach is the delightful and often deserted
cove of Dhelfíni. A further 600m brings you to the pebble beach of Fonéa, wrapped
around a rock outcrop and tucked into a corner of the hillside. Stoúpa was home in
1917-18 to the wandering Cretan writer, Nikos Kazantzakis, who is said to have based
the title character in
Zorba the Greek
on a worker at the lignite mine in nearby Pástrova.
Out of peak season, Stoúpa is certainly recommended, though in July and August,
and any summer weekend, you may find the crowds a bit overwhelming and space at a
premium. A popular walking-guide booklet and large-scale map are available: ask at the
efficient Doufexis Travel.
ARRIVAL AND INFORMATION
2
STOÚPA
By bus
The Kalamáta-Ítylo bus stops at the junctions at
each end of town, but does not go in, 3-4 times daily.
By car
Driving up from the south, the main access road
to town is well signed, forking off about 1km away from
the centre.
Services
Doufexis Travel
(
T
27210 77677,
E
douftvl
@hellasnet.gr) can find accommodation and organize car
rental (including for the southern Peloponnese during the
winter), as well as exchange money. Stoúpa taxi is on
T
27210 77477. On the main road there is a good bakery and
two well-stocked supermarkets.
ACCOMMODATION AND EATING
Akroyiali
T
27210 77335.
This taverna at the southern
end of the main beach not only has well-prepared food,
including seafood, but also has views after dark of the
lights of the mountain village Saïdhóna which look
remarkably like an extra constellation of stars. Main dishes
average €10.
Daily lunch & dinner.
Lefktron
T
27210 77322,
W
lefktron-hotel.gr.
Modern
and comfortable, just to the south of town and near the
beach, rooms here have a/c, fridges and balconies,
alo
ng
with internet access and a pool. Breakfast included.
€80
Ta Delfinia Camping
T
27210 77318,
W
lefktron.info
/delfinia/f_camping-stoupa-kardamili.htm.
Just north
of town, amid an olive grove on its own quiet beach,
campers rate this site among the top five on the
Peloponnese. There's an on-site re
staur
ant and market, and
all basic facilities. April-Oct. From
€10
Kardhamýli
KARDHAMÝLI
, 8km north of Stoúpa, is a major resort by Peloponnese standards and
suffering from the busy main road that splits it. The
beach
is good, though not sandy
- a long pebble strip north of the village, backed by olive trees. This is where the author
Patrick Leigh Fermor (see p.801) chose to make his home, and it's certainly one of the
greenest and loveliest of places around, an excellent base for walkers (see opposite).
Inland from the platía, it's a nice walk up to “Old Kardhamýli”: a partly restored
citadel of nineteenth-century houses, gathered about the church of
Áyios Spyrídhon
with its unusual multistorey bell tower. Here in the church courtyard Maniot chieftains
Kolokotronis and Mourtzinos played human chess with their troops during the War of
Independence. Part of the area is an interesting
museum
(Tues-Sun, 9am-2pm).
Further back, on the path up to Ayía Sofía, is a pair of ancient tombs, said to be of the
Dioskoúri
(the Gemini twins).
ARRIVAL AND INFORMATION
KARDHAMÝLI
By bus
The Kalamáta-Ítylo bus stops 3-4 times daily at
the bookshop at the southern end of the main road, as well
as at the central square at the northern end.
By car
Driving up from the south, the main road passes
through town, just 2 blocks inland.
Taxis
Taxis are on
T
27210 74497,
T
27210 73433 or
T
27210 74323.
Services
On the main road south of the platía, you'll find a
bookshop and a post office (Mon-Fri). There is an ATM at
the bank, next to the bridge.
ACCOMMODATION
Ì
Anniska
T
27210 73600,
W
anniska.gr.
This fresh
property, the creation of an Anglo-Greek couple, enjoys a
secluded spot on the hill just behind town. Self-catering
studios and apartments have sea views and easy private
beach access, with facilities. Amenities include concierge
service, wi-fi and PCs, a panoramic terrace coffee bar and a
