The Peloponnese - The Rough Guide to Greece - page 154

1821, and his Maniot army was to prove vital to the success of the War of Independence .
Mavromihalis swiftly fell out with the first president of the nation, Kapodhistrías, and,
with other members of the clan, was imprisoned by him at Náfplio - an act leading to
the president's assassination at the hands of Petrobey's brothers. The monarchy fared
little better until one of the king's German officers was sent to the Máni to enlist soldiers
in a special Maniot militia.
In the twentieth century, ignored by the powerful central government in Athens, this
backwater area slipped into decline, with drastic and persistent depopulation of the
villages. In places like Váthia and Kítta, which once held populations in the hundreds,
the numbers are now down to single figures. Recently, there has been an influx of
money, partly due to increased tourism, partly to membership in the EU. The result
has been considerable refurbishment, with many postwar concrete houses acquiring
“traditional” stone facings.

2

Yíthio (Gythion)
YÍTHIO , Sparta's ancient port, is the eastern gateway to the Máni peninsula, and one of
the south's most attractive seaside towns in its own right. Its somewhat low-key
harbour, with occasional ferries to Pireás and Kýthira, gives onto a graceful nineteenth-
century waterside of tiled-roof houses - some of them now showing their age. There are
beaches within walking distance, and rooms are relatively easy to find. In the bay,
tethered by a long, narrow jetty, is the islet of Marathoníssi , ancient Kranae, where Paris
of Troy, having abducted Helen from Menelaus's palace at Sparta, dropped anchor, and
where the lovers spent their first night.

Marathoníssi
Marathoníssi islet is the town's main attraction, with swimming possible off the rocks
towards the lighthouse. Amid the island's trees and scrub stands the restored Tzanetákis
tower-fortress, built around 1810 by the Turkish-appointed Bey of the Máni, to guard
the harbour against his lawless countrymen. It now houses a Museum of the Máni
(officially Tues-Sun 9.30am-3pm, though often closed; €2), which deals with the
exploration of the Máni from Ciriaco de Pizzicoli (1447) to Henri Belle (1861), with
labels in Greek and English.

Roman theatre
Open site • Free
There are some impressive remains of a Roman theatre at the northeast end of the
town. Follow the road past the post office for about 300m until you reach the army
barracks - the site stands just to the left, inside the outer gate. With most of its stone
seats intact, and 50m in diameter, the theatre illustrates perfectly how buildings in
Greece take on different guises through the ages: to one side is a Byzantine church
(now ruined) which, in turn, functions as an outer wall of the barracks.
ARRIVAL AND DEPARTURE YÍTHIO

By bus The bus station is close to the centre of town, with
the main waterfront street, Vassiléos Pávlou, ahead of you.
Destinations Athens (6 daily; 5hr); Areópoli (4 daily;
30min); Láyia (2 daily; 1hr); Mavrouvoúni (“Kamping”, 4
daily; 15-20min); Monemvasiá (2 daily in high season; 2hr

30min); Pýrgos Dhiroú (“Spílea”, 1 daily; 1hr); Váthia (1
daily, Mon, Wed, Fri only; 1hr 30min); Yeroliménas (3 daily;
1hr 15min).
By ferry Kýthira (1-5 weekly in season; 2hr 30min).

INFORMATION
Tourist o ce There is a small EOT tourist office at
Vassiléos Yeoryíou 20.
Services There are several banks near the bus station. The

helpful Rozaki Shipping and Travel Agency on the waterfront
( T 27330 22650, E [e-mail]) can provide ferry
sailing times and car rental and will also change money.