Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
KANGAROO ISLAND
Kýthira was never a rich island, but, along with Monemvasiá, it did once have a military and
economic significance - which it likewise lost with Greek independence and the opening of
the Corinth Canal. Since then, emigration (almost entirely to
Australia
, which islanders refer to
as “Big Kýthira”) has reduced the permanent population significantly. In summer many Greek
Australians return to here to visit family (Greeks call it “Kangaroo Island”), which is why the
English spoken on the island usually has a distinct Down Under lilt.
2
fortress is up a modern pathway, but, to the right of this, the original narrow tunnel
entrance is still usable. Within the castle walls, most of the buildings are in ruins,
except for the paired churches of Panayía Myrtidhiótissa and the smaller Panayía
Orfáni (Catholic and Orthodox respectively, under the Venetian occupation).
There are spectacular
views
down to Kapsáli and out to sea to the chunk of
inaccessible islet known as
Avgó
(Egg), legendary
birthplace of Aphrodite
. On its
cliffs grow the yellow-flowered everlasting (
sempreviva
), used locally for making
small dried flower arrangements, which you see for sale in every shop, symbol of the
goddess's eternal beauty.
ACCOMMODATION AND EATING KAPSÁLI AND THE SOUTH
In high season, it goes without saying that you must book ahead if you want
accommodation
in Kapsáli. Finding a
hotel
in Hóra is easier, since it's well away from the beach. Both towns have plenty of good
places to eat
.
KAPSÁLI
Ì
Afrodite Apartments
T
27360 31328,
W
hotel
-afrodite.gr.
This white complex stands above the town,
with good views, a pleasant rear garden, and (slow) internet
facilities for guests. A few really choice apartment
s ar
e on
the seaward side of the road, just above the beach.
€70
Chýtra
Named after the island offshore, the Kettle (aka
the Egg), where Aphrodite is said to have been born, this
appealing harbourside taverna offers all the best of Greek
traditional cookery - extraordinary stewed broad green
beans in season - with beachfront seating.
May-Sept
daily lunch & dinner.
Hydragogio
T
27360 31065.
Located at the Hóra end of
the beach, facing the water, this choice serves up good veggie
options, such as
briam
, as well as fish (€20-70/kg). Main
dishes average about €8.
May-Sept daily lunch & dinner.
Vasili Spitia
T
27360 31125,
W
kythirabungalows
vasili.gr.
Located a short way up the hill amid an old olive
grove, this place offers comfortable rooms and studios, all
with a/c,
balc
onies and sea views. Breakfast included.
April-Oct.
€80
HÓRA
Belvedere
Overlooking both the castle and the twin bays
of Kapsáli, the main draw here is the impressive terrace
seating. Traditional Greek dishes, plus pizzas.
Daily lunch &
dinner.
Castello Apartments
T
27360 31869,
W
castelloapts
-kythera.gr.
On the Kapsáli side of town, with great views
all around, this cheerful structure is off the street, in a
garden setting. The nine self-catering rooms, studios and
apar
tment are simple and some have balconies and views.
€45
Ì
Margarita
T
27360 31711,
W
hotel-margarita
.com.
This beautiful, immaculately maintained 1840s
house is down just below the main street. There are
wonderful views of the coast and the castle, and
very
friendly and helpful staff. Buffet breakfast €10/person.
€80
Zorba's
34 on the lane that leads down from the platía
T
27360 31655.
By far the best taverna in town, as both
locals and travellers concur. Only €10-15 for a full meal,
with grilled meats a speciality, served on a beautiful
terrace.
Tues-Sun lunch & dinner; Mon dinner only.
Avlémonas
The prettiest destination on the east coast is Avlémonas, on a rocky bay at the top
of this coast. It's a small fishing port with an end-of-the-world feel as you approach
from a distance. It becomes much more attractive once reached, and has a
remarkable coordination of colour schemes throughout the village. There is a
small Venetian fortress and little coves with some of the clearest water around, fine
for swimming.
