Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
The theatre is just one component of what was one of the most important sanctuaries
in the ancient world, dedicated to
Asklepios
(god of healing) and a site of pilgrimage
for half a millennium, from the sixth century BC into Roman times. In addition to its
medical activities, the sanctuary hosted a quadrennial festival, which followed the
Isthmian Games.
Now a World Heritage Site, restoration and reconstruction work is perpetually under
way, so varying areas of the site may be temporarily closed.
2
ARRIVAL AND INFORMATION
EPIDAURUS
By bus
Most people take in Epidaurus as a day-trip; there
are four buses daily from Náfplio (45min) to the site. They
are marked “Theatre”, “Asklipion” or “Epidavros” and
shouldn't be confused with those to the modern villages of
Néa or Arhéa (Paleá) Epídhavros, the closest beach resort.
There are also special evening buses from the site to Náfplio
after shows; check at Náfplio bus station.
Theatre tickets
Tickets are available in advance online
(
W
greekfestival.gr), in Athens (at the festival box offices
T
210 327 2000), or sometimes at the site (
T
27530
22026) during the festival. Prices range from €15-50.
There have been instances of overselling and ticket-holders
being turned away at the gates, so turn up early. In Athens,
you can buy all-inclusive tickets for performances and
return bus travel. English translations of the plays are
available at the site and at the
Odyssey
bookshop in Náfplio
(see opposite).
ACCOMMODATION AND EATING
It's possible to
camp
at the grass car park on performance days, though you must wait until an hour after the play's end
before setting up a tent.
Leonidas
Paleá
Epídhavros
T
27520 22115.
Great
taverna with a garden out the back; you'd be wise to book
ahead if your visit coincides with a performance at the
ancient theatre. Actors eat here after shows, and photos on
the wall feature the likes of François Mitterrand and Sir
Peter Hall. Mains around €20.
Daily lunch & dinner.
The ancient theatre
Epidaurus's
ancient theatre
is the primary sight. With its backdrop of rolling hills, this
14,000-seat semicircle merges perfectly into the landscape, so well, in fact, that it was
rediscovered and unearthed only in the nineteenth century. Constructed with
mathematical precision, it has an extraordinary equilibrium and, as guides on the stage
are forever demonstrating, near-perfect natural
acoustics
- such that you can hear
coins, or even matches, dropped in the circular orchestra from the highest of the 54
tiers of seats. Constructed of white limestone (red for the dignitaries in the front rows),
the tiered seats have been repaired, though the beaten-earth stage has been retained, as
in ancient times.
The museum
Summer Mon noon-7pm, Tues-Sun 8am-7pm; winter closes 5pm • Entrance fee included in site ticket price
Most of the ruins visible today are just foundations - the sanctuary was looted by the
Romans in 86 BC - but a visit to the
museum
helps identify some of the former
SNAKES ALIVE: HEALING IN ANCIENT GREECE
Temples to
Asklepios
, god of medicine, were once found across ancient Greece, and his
symbol, the staff and serpent, is still seen today on everything from ambulances to the logo of
the World Health Organization. Although quite advanced surgical instruments have been
found at Epidaurus, healing methods were far from conventional. Harmless snakes are believed
to have been kept in the building and released at night to bestow a divinely curative
forked-tongue lick. In other cases, snakes might have been used as a primitive kind of shock
therapy for the mentally ill. The a
icted would have crawled in darkness through the
maze-like Tholos (see p.144) guided by a crack of light towards the middle, where they would
find themselves surrounded by writhing reptiles.
