Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
The Turkish remains are unusually substantial. Elsewhere in Greece evidence of the
Ottoman occupation has been removed or defaced, but here, at the start of the climb
to the entrance, you can see the still-used fountain of Hatzi Mustafa , Christianized by
the addition of great carved crosses. The outer of the citadel's triple gates is also largely
Turkish; the middle is a combination of Venetian and Frankish; the inner, Byzantine,
incorporating fourth-century BC towers. Within the citadel, the first summit (to the
right) is enclosed by a Frankish keep - as striking as they come - which last saw action
in 1828 during the War of Independence. Keeping along the track to the left, you pass
some interesting (if perilous) cisterns, the remains of a Turkish bathhouse, and
crumbling Byzantine chapels.
In the southeast corner of the citadel, hidden away in the lower ground, is the
upper Peirene spring . This is not easy to find: look out for a narrow, overgrown
entrance, from which a flight of iron stairs leads down some 5m to a metal screen.
Here, broad stone steps descend into the dark depths, where a fourth-century BC
arch stands guard over a pool of (nonpotable) water that has never been known to
dry up. To the north of the fountain, on the second and higher summit, is the site of
the Temple of Aphrodite ; after its days as a brothel, it saw use as a church, mosque
and belvedere.
ARRIVAL AND DEPARTURE
2
ANCIENT CORINTH
By bus Buses to Arhéa Kórinthos village leave from
Kórinthos 5min to the hour from 8am to 9pm and return at
twenty past (20 min; €1.40).
ACCOMMODATION AND EATING
There is a scattering of rooms to rent in Arhéa Kórinthos village and plenty of tavernas along the fence that encloses
the excavation.
Ì Gemelos T 27410 31361. Large taverna with terrace
seating directly overlooking the excavations. Excellent
meals feature the likes of grilled chicken, home-made pitta
bread and fat juicy olives (mains €15). At the time of
writing there were plans to open rooms (around €50), with
breakfast included. Daily morning till midnight.
Shadow T & F 27410 31481. Comfortable if modest
hotel just after the cemetery on the road in from Kórinthos.
A restaurant downstairs is decorated with an extensive
collection of m inerals, fossils and petrified wood. Breakfast
included. €45
Nemea
Summer daily 8am-7.30pm; winter Mon noon-7pm, Tues-Sun 8.30am-3pm • €4 • Buses run from Kórinthos to modern Neméa (6 daily;
1hr) - ask to be dropped at Arhéa Neméa, the small village just 300m west of the ruins.
Nemea - home to the Lion of Hercules' (Herakles) first labour - is just 31km
southwest of Kórinthos, of the road to Mycenae and Árgos. Like Olympia, Nemea
held athletic games for the Greek world from the sixth century BC, until these were
transferred to Árgos in 270 BC.
A sanctuary rather than a town, the principal remains at the site are of the Temple of
Nemean Zeus , currently three slender Doric columns surrounded by other fallen and
broken drums, but slowly being reassembled. Nearby are a palaestra with baths and a
Christian basilica , built with blocks from the temple. There is also an excellent
museum (same hours, except summer Mon noon-7pm; included in ticket price), with
contextual models, displays relating to the biennial games and items from the area.
Outside the site, 500m east, is the stadium , which once seated 40,000 spectators. The
vaulted entrance tunnel, now reconstructed, and complete with the graffiti of ancient
athletes, is the oldest known. There is a guide available, written by archeologist Stephen
Miller, who organized the (now quadrennial) New Nemean Games in 1996 as a
non-commercial alternative to the Olympics; anyone can enter if they run barefoot and
wear traditional tunics.
 
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