Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
1
hour continues to Soúnio). There are also direct buses
between Lávrio and the airport.
By car Drivers can take either route described above or
complete a circuit, but there's little to see in the interior,
where the road takes you via the airport and the toll
motorway.
EATING AND DRINKING
Akroyiali Soúnio beach T 22920 39107. Right down by
the water, a beachside taverna with both character and
history - a number of illustrious Greek guests have dined
here. The food, mainly fish, is simple but cooked to
perfection (as ever, the fish is priced by weight). Lunch &
dinner daily.
The east coast
Central Attica has been blighted by the new airport and its associated motorways, and
though there are still villages with Byzantine churches and countryside where wine is
made, there's little incentive, when heading east, to stop anywhere before you reach the
coast. This is popular with weekending Athenians and the site of many of their second
homes. Almost due east of Athens lies the port of Rafína , and to the north of here are
Marathon and the isolated site of ancient Ramnous , as well as some relatively
uncrowded beaches. South of Rafína the coast is less attractive, with continuous
development all the way down through Loútsa (aka Artemis) towards Pórto Ráfti ; it is
also directly beneath the airport flight path.
Rafína
The port of RAFÍNA has fast ferries and catamarans to the Cyclades, as well as to
nearby Évvia. Many Athenians have summer homes overlooking the attractive,
rocky coast, but the beaches are tricky to reach even with a car, so for visitors the
chief attraction, ferries aside, is gastronomic. Overlooking the harbour is a line of
excellent seafood restaurants , many with roof terraces and a ringside view of the
comings and goings at the harbour. They're interspersed with cafés and fishmongers.
The pedestrianized square above the harbour is also a lively place, ringed with cafés
and rather cheaper eating options. A lunchtime outing is an easy operation, given
the frequency of the bus service. Evenings, when it's livelier, you'll need to get a taxi
back, or stay.
Marathon
The site of the battle of Marathon , the most famous and arguably most important
military victory in Athenian history, is not far from the village of MARATHÓNAS , 42km
from Athens. Here, in 490 BC, a force of 9000 Athenians and 1000 of their Plataian
allies defeated a 25,000-strong Persian army. After the victory a runner was sent to
Athens to declare the news: having run the first marathon, he delivered his message and
dropped dead. Just 192 Athenians died in the battle (compared to some 6,000
Persians), and the burial mound where they were laid, the Týmfos Marathóna (Tues-
Sun 8.30am-3pm; €3), can still be seen, off the main road between Rafína and
Marathónas. It is a quietly impressive monument, though surrounded now by one-way
roads installed for the Olympic marathon race. The Mound of the Plataians (Tues-Sun
8.30am-3pm; €3), where the eleven Plataians (including a 10-year-old boy) who died
were laid to rest, is about 5km away, near the edge of the mountain; there's also a small,
modern archeological museum here.
Áyios Pandelímonas
ÁYIOS PANDELÍMONAS , also known as Paralía Marathónas, lies straight on past the
Týmfos Marathóna. The beach isn't the greatest - though there's plenty of room to
spread out - but a string of waterfront fish tavernas and an open-air movie theatre
ensure plenty of local visitors in summer.
 
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