Travel Reference
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(a)
(b)
Fig. 1.10.
Schools from the colonial era: (a) Sacred Heart Convent,Yercaud; (b) Breeks School, Ooty.
Source: author, Ooty and Yercaud (2007).
relatively close to their parents, or at least, to
their mothers.
In their attempts to re-construct and pre-
serve Britishness in India, an increasing ritu-
alistic importance became attached to the
perpetuation of social traditions that had their
roots in Britain (Kanwar, 1984). In the major hill
stations, dinners were formal affairs and Cros-
sette (1998) writes of numerous full-dress balls
and costume-party evenings. In places like
Simla, Darjeeling and Ooty, the best wines and
champagnes were drunk regularly and food not
easily available today was made available for
offi cials of the Crown. Women who ran the
households for their husbands (Blunt, 1999),
especially wives of senior colonial administra-
tors, would have ensured that fi ne food was
served on tables set with fi ne linens, silver cut-
lery and crystal. This opulence was all part of
the perception that maintaining high standards
was key to the continuation of Empire. Stan-
dards of etiquette and behaviour were arguably
taken to extremes, exceeding those in Britain.
They were perceived as strengths by those who
upheld them, and were used to emphasize to
the Indian one of the strengths upon which
Empire was based. Between social events at
clubs and summer residences, the British on the
hills enjoyed horse races, horse shows and gym-
khanas. It was an absolute necessity to be able
to ride well where roads were poor and many
Crown offi cials were army-trained horsemen.
Shooting (game) was another pastime, mainly
but not exclusively for men. Amateur theatri-
cals, bridge parties, whist drives and mah-jong
evenings all provided amusement, and for those
hours of rest and relaxation, local libraries pro-
vided literature to suit a variety of visitors. Paint-
ing and sketching were popular and in the
majority of colonial homes, it was possible to
fi nd at least one home production of Monarch
of the Glen, or similar artistic construction.
Crossette (1998) notes that besides the lavish
social events and relaxation there were also
assignations to enliven long afternoons and
dark mountain nights.
Excessive extravagance was confi ned largely
to the major hill stations. The smaller settle-
ments where offi cial functions were limited were
much more prudent. Nevertheless, even at
these stations visitors from the plains looked for-
ward to a relatively rich and lively social diet for
the duration of their stay and the anticipation of
all this conditioned the visitors' gaze. The lives
of Indians were largely ignored except where
they formed a regular part of the workforce or
where the 'otherness' of the hill tribes interested
European visitors.
The Tourist Gaze in the 1950s
and 1960s - the End of an Era
Hill stations had declined signifi cantly after their
heyday, which lasted from the late 19th century
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