Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
5
BEST OF ASAKUSA
Sensō-ji Stroll along Nakamise-dōri to this wonderful temple (see below)
Onsen Wallow in the water (see box, p.201)
Himiko Float down the Sumida-gawa on a spaceship-like ferry (see p.24)
Tokyo Skytree Gaze down over the city from the world's second-tallest structure (see p.72)
Andon Ryōkan Take in tradition with a twist (see p.141)
Maguro Bito Pluck delectable sushi from the revolving rack (see p.150)
Though you can easily get to Asakusa by subway, its fun to arrive (or depart) by ferry
along the Sumida-gawa (see p.24). The ferry station is beside the Azuma-bashi, a bridge
that also makes a great viewing site for a couple of Tokyo's most striking pieces of
modern architecture: dominating the horizon is the city's newest mega-structure, the
soaring Tokyo Skytree telecommunications tower (see p.72); closer to the bridge is the
Philippe Starck-designed Asahi Beer Hall, replete with what's supposed to be a stylized
flame, but is known to all and sundry as the “Golden Turd” ( ۚͷ͏Μ͜ , kin no unko).
INFORMATION
ASAKUSA
Tourist information In front of Sensō-ji's main gate
(daily 9.30am-8pm; T 03 3842 5566). English-language
information on local festivals, tours and so on. They give
better ferry information than the staff in the terminal and
can also advise on places to eat.
Tours You can join walking tours (Sun 11am & 2pm; free)
of the area with English-speaking guides, starting from
the tourist information o ce. Alternatively, try Travelience
( W travelience.com) who run interesting tours of the area
for ¥500.
Sensō-ji
ઙ૲ࣉ • North end of Nakamise-dōri • 24hr • Free • Asakusa station
Walking west from the river or Asakusa subway station, you can't miss the solid
red-lacquer Kaminari-mon gate, with its enormous paper lantern, that marks the
southern entrance to Sensō-ji . This magnificent temple, also known as Asakusa
Kannon, was founded in the mid-seventh century to enshrine a tiny golden image of
Kannon, the goddess of mercy, which had turned up in the nets of two local fishermen.
Most of the present buildings are postwar concrete reconstructions, and recent
renovation work has seen the roof of the main structure completely covered in titanium
tiles, to improve earthquake resistance.
Kaminari-mon
The main temple approach starts under Kaminari-mon , or “Thunder Gate”, which
shelters statues of the guardian gods of Thunder and Wind (named Raijin and Fūjin),
and proceeds along Nakamise-dōri, a colourful parade of small shops packed with
gaudy souvenirs, tiny traditional dolls, kimono accessories and sweet-scented piles of
sembei rice crackers.
Hōzō-mon
A double-storeyed treasure gate, Hōzō-mon stands astride the entrance to the main
temple complex. The treasures themselves, fourteenth-century Chinese sutras, are
locked away on the upper floor. The gate's two protective Niō - the traditional
guardians of Buddhist temples - are even more imposing than those at Kaminari-mon;
look out for their enormous rice-straw sandals slung on the gate's rear wall.
The main hall
Beyond Hōzō-mon there's a constant crowd clustered around a large, bronze incense
bowl where people waft the pungent smoke over themselves: considered the breath of
the gods, it is supposed to have curative powers. There's nothing much to see inside the
 
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