Ginza and around - The Rough Guide to Tokyo - page 49

Ginza
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Although cutting-edge fashion has moved elsewhere in Tokyo, Ginza retains much of
its elegance and its undoubted snob appeal. Here you'll find the city's greatest
concentration of exclusive shops and restaurants, the most theatres and cinemas, major
department stores, and a fair number of art galleries (see box below).
The area is packed into a compact rectangular grid enclosed by the Shuto Expressway.
Three broad avenues run from north to south, Chūō-dōri being the main shopping
street, while Harumi-dōri cuts across the centre from the east. In the west, Ginza proper
begins at the Sukiyabashi crossing, where Sotobori-dōri and Harumi-dōri intersect.
Continuing east along Harumi-dōri, you'll reach the intersection with Chūō-dōri
known as Ginza Yon-chōme crossing , which marks the heart of Ginza. Awesome at
rush hour, this spot often features in films and documentaries as the epitome of this
overcrowded yet totally e cient city.

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Kabukiza Theatre
4-12-15 Ginza, Chūō-ku • Gallery open daily 11am-7pm • Free • W kabuki-za.co.jp • Higashi-Ginza station
Tokyo rejoiced when the famed Kabukiza Theatre , one of Ginza's most iconic buildings,
reopened its doors in early 2013. First opened in 1889, the theatre has been rebuilt several
times, a victim of fires and war damage. Kengo Kuma, the architect responsible for the
Nezu Museum's new building (see p.114), is behind its most recent incarnation and he has
reinstated the elaborate facade of the original, which burned down in 1921. Backed by a
29-storey o ce block, this is classic “city of contrasts” territory. Catch a play (see p.180) or
simply check out the fifth-floor gallery, with its wonderful display of kabuki costumes.

ON THE ART TRAIL IN GINZA
Though a little short on tourist sights, Ginza is the bastion of Tokyo's commercial galleries -
there are enough of them here to keep you busy for a full day. Just to the north, and also
highly recommended, is the Bridgestone Museum of Art (see opposite).
Creation Gallery G8 Recruit GINZA8 Building 1F 8-4-
17 Ginza, Chūō-ku T 03 3578 6918; Shimbashi station.
Hosts group shows, including occasional collaborations
with the Ginza Graphic Gallery. Tues-Sat 11am-7pm.
Design Gallery 3-6-1 Ginza, Chūō-ku T 03 3571
5206; Ginza station. Hidden up on the seventh floor
of the Matsuya Ginza department store, the Japan
Design Committee's Design Gallery may be tiny, but
shows are usually curated by Japan's top designers. The
adjacent Design Collection retail area is also worth a
look, as it stocks the very best in product design. Mon
& Tues 10am-7.30pm, Thurs-Sun 10am-8pm (Fri
until 9pm).
Gallery Koyanagi 8F 1-7-5 Ginza, Chūō-ku T 03
3561 1896, W gallerykoyanagi.com; Ginza-itchōme
Station. Innovative gallery representing a varied group
of Japanese and international artists. Exhibitions change
monthly. Tues-Sat 11am-7pm.
Gallery Tsubaki 3-3-10 Kyōbashi, Chūō-ku T 03
3281 7808, W gallery-tsubaki.jp; Kyōbashi Station.
Representing about forty artists, mostly Japanese, this
interesting little place is tucked down a side street just
west of Chūō-dōri. Daily 11am-6.30pm.

Ginza Graphic Gallery 7-7-2 Ginza, Chūō-ku T 03
3571 5206, W www.dnp.co.jp/gallery/ggg; Ginza
station. Presents monthly exhibitions that cover - for
the most part - graphic design work from the best of
Japan's creators. Closes for a few days between shows.
Mon-Fri 11am-7pm, Sat 11am-6pm.
Maison Hermès 8F 5-4-1 Ginza, Chūō-ku T 03 3569
3611; Ginza station. At the top of the Renzo Piano-
designed “bubble-wrap” building, home to Hermès'
Tokyo boutique, this gallery hosts themed shows of
Japanese and international art. Daily 11am-7pm.
Shiseidō Gallery B1F 8-8-3 Ginza, Chūō-ku T 03
3572 3901, W group.shiseido.co.jp/gallery; Ginza
or Shimbashi stations. Located in the distinctive red
showroom of the Japanese cosmetics giant Shiseidō,
this basement gallery hosts group and solo shows.
Tues-Sat 11am-7pm, Sun 11am-6pm.
Tokyo Gallery + BTAP 7F 8-10-5 Ginza, Chūō-ku
T 03 3571 1808, W tokyo-gallery.com; Shimbashi
station. Dating back to 1950, Tokyo Gallery shows
cutting-edge work from the Chinese and Korean
contemporary art scenes (they have a branch in Beijing).
Tues-Fri 11am-7pm, Sat 11am-5pm.