Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
East Kamakura
The eastern side of Kamakura contains a scattering of less-visited shrines and temples,
including two of the town's most enchanting corners. Though it's possible to cover
the area on foot in a half-day (less if you hop on a bus for the return journey), by far
the best way to explore these scattered locations is to rent a bicycle (see p.237 for
information on buses and bikes).
Hōkoku-ji
ใࠃࣉ
• 2-7-4 Jomyoji • Daily 9am-4pm • Bamboo gardens ¥200
The well-tended gardens and simple wooden buildings of
Hōkoku-ji
, or Take-dera, the
“Bamboo Temple”, are accessed via a small bridge off Kanazawa-kaidō. The temple is best
known for a grove of evergreen bamboo protected by the encircling cliffs. This dappled
forest of thick, gently curved stems, where tinkling water spouts and the soft creaking of
the wind-rocked canes mu
e the outside world, would seem the perfect place for the
monks' meditation. Too soon, though, the path emerges beside the manicured rear
garden, which was created by the temple's founding priest in the thirteenth century.
Sugimoto-dera
ਿຊࣉ
• 903 Nikaido • Daily 8am-4.30pm • ¥200
One of Kamakura's oldest temples,
Sugimoto-dera
is set at the top of a steep, foot-worn
staircase lined with fluttering white flags, overlooking the main road. Standing in a
woodland clearing, the small, thatched temple, founded in 734, exudes a real sense of
history. Inside its smoke-blackened hall, spattered with pilgrims' prayer stickers, you
can slip off your shoes and take a look behind the altar at the three wooden statues of
Jūichimen Kannon, the eleven-faced Goddess of Mercy. The images were carved at
different times by famous monks, but all three are at least 1000 years old. According
to legend, they survived a devastating fire in 1189 by taking shelter - all by
themselves - behind a giant tree; since then the temple has been known as Sugimoto
(“Under the Cedar”).
20
Kamakura-gū
חٶ
• 154 Nikaido • Daily 9am-4pm • ¥300
Mainly of interest for its history and torchlight nō dramas in early October,
Kamakura-gū
was founded by Emperor Meiji in 1869 to encourage support for his new imperial
regime. The shrine is dedicated to Prince Morinaga, a forgotten fourteenth-century hero
who helped restore his father, Emperor Go-Daigo, briefly to the throne. The prince was
soon denounced, however, by power-hungry rivals and held for nine months in a
Kamakura cave before being executed. The small cave and a desultory treasure house lie
to the rear of the classically styled shrine, but don't really justify the entry fee.
A road heading north from Kamakura-gū marks the beginning - or end - of the
shortcut to the Ten'en Hiking Course.
Zuisen-ji
ਸ਼ઘࣉ
• 710 Nikaido • Daily 9am-4.30pm • ¥200
Starting point of the main trail of the Ten'en Hiking Course (see p.230),
Zuisen-ji
's
quiet, wooded location and luxuriant gardens make it an attractive spot, though
the temple's fourteenth-century Zen garden, to the rear of the main building, is
rather dilapidated.
The Daibutsu Hiking Course
େϋΠΩϯάίʔε
Follow the lane running south beside Jōchi-ji (see p.229) and you'll find the steps
which mark the northern end of the
Daibutsu Hiking Course
. This meandering
ridge-path (2.2km) makes an enjoyable approach to Hase's Great Buddha (see p.234),
