Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
(see box, p.222). What stands here today is a reproduction, enlivened by waxwork
displays which provide the historical background. There's nothing much to keep you
here; instead, stroll north of the barrier around the wooded promontory, past the bland
reconstruction of the Emperor Meiji's Hakone Detached Palace, and take in the views
of the lake.
Moto-Hakone
ݩശࠜ
Part of the Tōkaidō ancient road - shaded by 420 lofty cryptomeria trees planted in
1618 and now designated “Natural Treasures” - runs for around 1km beside the road
leading from the Hakone Barrier to the lakeside
MOTO-HAKONE
tourist village. The
prettiest spot around here is the vermilion
torii
, standing in the water just north of
Moto-Hakone - a scene celebrated in many an
ukiyo-e
print and modern postcard.
The gate belongs to the
Hakone Gongen
(
ശࠜݖݱ
) and is the highlight of this small
Shinto shrine, where samurai once came to pray.
Ashino-ko to Hakone-Yumoto
From either Hakone-machi or Moto-Hakone
you can take a
bus
back to Hakone-
Yumoto or Odawara (see opposite). Far more rewarding, however, is the 11km
hike
along part of the Tōkaidō ancient road, which begins five minutes up the hill from
the Hakone-Tozan bus station in Moto-Hakone; to find the start of the route, keep
an eye out for a spot where large paving stones are laid through the shady forests.
After the first 2km the route is all downhill and takes around four hours. When the
path comes out of the trees and hits the main road, you'll see the
Amazake-jaya
Teahouse
(see p.226).
From the teahouse, the path shadows the main road to the small village of
HATAJUKU
(
ാ॓
), where since the ninth century craftsmen have perfected the art of
yosegi-zaiku
,
or marquetry. The wooden boxes, toys and other objects inlaid with elaborate mosaic
patterns make great souvenirs and there are workshops throughout the village,
including one right where the path emerges onto the main road. Hatajuku is a good
place to pick up the bus the rest of the way to Hakone-Yumoto if you don't fancy
hiking any further.
20
HAKONE TRAVEL PASSES
Touring the Hakone area is great fun, but the various train, funicular, cable car and boat tickets
can add up quickly. One way to prevent this, and save a bundle of cash, is to invest in one of
the many
travel passes
covering the area. As well as covering almost all transport, they can
be used to lop a little off entry prices to some sights. You can buy passes at the
Odakyū
Sightseeing Service Centre
at the west exit of Shinjuku station (daily 8am-6pm;
T
03 5321
7887,
W
www.odakyu.jp/english); the English-speaking staff here can also make reservations
for tours and hotels.
Hakone Freepass
If you plan to follow the traditional
Hakone route, invest in this pass, which comes in either
two- or three-day versions; from Shinjuku, it costs
¥5000/¥5500 (2/3 days); from Odawara or Gotemba it
costs ¥3900/¥4400 (2/3 days). The pass covers a return
journey on the Odakyū line from Shinjuku to Odawara,
and unlimited use of the Hakone-Tozan line, Hakone-
Tozan funicular railway, cable car, boats across the lake
and most local buses.
Hakone One-day Pass
If you're already in Odawara or
Gotemba you can buy a special one-day pass for ¥2000.
It doesn't cover the journeys to or from Tokyo, nor the
cable car and boat.
Fuji Hakone Pass
If you're going directly from Hakone
to the neighbouring Fuji Five Lakes area (or vice versa)
then the three-day Fuji Hakone Pass (¥7200) is the way
to go. This offers the same deal as a Hakone Freepass
but also covers a one-way express bus trip between
Hakone-Yumoto and Kawaguchi-ko.
