Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
Nikkō and around
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“NIKKŌ is Nippon”, goes the town's slogan. It's only half-correct, though: visitors to
Japan come prepared to take the ancient with the modern, but this town, 128km north
of the capital, is up there with the most traditional in the country. It certainly lives up
to its billing better than Kyoto, the vaunted dynastic capital way out west.
Most come to see the World Heritage-listed Tōshō-gū shrine complex, which sits
amid mountains crisscrossed by the outstanding hiking trails of Nikkō National Park .
Tōshō-gū attracts masses of Japanese tourists year round, who tramp dutifully around
the shrine and the surrounding holy buildings. A trip around Tōshō-gū is likely to
quench your appetite for sightseeing, but it's worth pressing on to some of the other
temples and shrines in the surrounding woods. After you've done that, you can
investigate the Nikkō Tōshō-gū Museum of Art , and the Nikkō Tamozawa Imperial Villa
Memorial Park , then cross the Daiya-gawa to explore the dramatically named Ganman-
ga-fuchi abyss , which is in fact a tranquil riverside walk. The most beautiful parts of the
national park are around Chūzenji-ko , some 17km from Nikkō, and the quieter resort
of Yumoto , higher in the mountains.
Despite its popularity as a tourist destination today, barely a century ago, in the wake
of the Meiji Restoration, Nikkō was running to seed. It was foreign diplomats and
businesspeople who began to favour it as a highland retreat from the heat of summer in
Tokyo; grand villas such as the Meiji-no-Yakata (see p.209) were built and the Kanaya
Inn - now the Nikkō Kanaya Hotel - was founded by Kanaya Zen'ichirō in 1873.
With a very early start from Tokyo you could attempt to see both Tōshō-gū and
Chūzenji-ko in a long day-trip, though cramming both into one day during the peak
summer and autumn seasons is impossible. It's best to stay overnight to get the most
out of the excursion.
20
Shin-kyō bridge
ਆڮ • Off Nihon Romantic Highway • Daily: April-Sept 8am-5pm; Oct to mid-Nov 8am-4pm; mid-Nov to March 9am-4pm • ¥500
At the top of Nikkō's main street is the red-lacquered Shin-kyō bridge , one of the
town's most famous landmarks. Legend has it that when the Buddhist priest Shōdō
Shōnin visited Nikkō in the eighth century, he was helped across the Daiya-gawa at
this very spot by the timely appearance of two snakes, which formed a bridge and then
vanished. The original arched wooden structure first went up in 1636, but has been
reconstructed many times since, most recently in 2005. Unless you must have a
close-up shot of the bridge, there's no need to pay the entrance fee, as the structure is
clearly visible from the road.
Rinnō-ji
ྠԦࣉ • Daily: April-Oct 8am-5pm; Nov-March 8am-4pm • ¥400; ¥900 including Taiyūin-Reibyō (see p.209); Treasure House ¥300
North of Shin-kyō bridge, an uphill pedestrian path works through gorgeous
woodland; follow it up and you'll soon emerge in front of the main compound of
Rinnō-ji , a Tendai Buddhist temple founded in 766 by Shōdō Shōnin; his statue
NIKKŌ IN WINTER
The one time of year when the crowds taper off at Nikkō is winter. Be sure to pack warm
clothes, as there are cross-country ski trails and downhill slopes to be discovered; for those
who haven't packed snowshoes, skis or a snowboard, the tourist o ce (see p.212) will be able
to advise on equipment hire. Winter is also the perfect time to enjoy Nikkō's onsen (see p.210);
most ryokan have bathing facilities on site, though there are a few other pools around town.
More temptations to get you up here in winter include discounted rates at practically all
accommodation, and half-price bus passes (see p.212) if you're staying at either Chūzenji
or Yumoto.
 
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