Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
17
TOKYO'S RARE GEISHA
Less than a century ago, geisha - female performers of traditional music and dance - were
a common sight around certain areas of Tokyo. The capital had six geisha quarters - the
so-called roku kagai (meaning “six flower districts”) - where geisha lived and entertained clients
in teahouses and ryōtei (banqueting houses): Akasaka, Asakusa, Kagurazaka, Mukōjima and
Yoshichō. Today, however, even in Mukōjima , once the largest of these districts, the number
of ryōtei is down from 400 to fewer than 20 and it's thought that there are only around 120
geisha practising their arts.
As a result of this rarity, an audience with a geisha is far from being a cheap affair, costing in
the region of ¥50,000. There are, however, occasional chances to see geisha in their finery for
much less, and even for free. The main one is when geisha parade during the Sanja Matsuri
(see p.71). Special performances by geisha of Japanese dancing at theatres such as the
Shimbashi Embujō (see p.180) or at top hotels, often during the cherry blossom season, are
also affordable at around ¥10,000 or less a ticket.
(a kind of lute that is laid on the ground), and the taiko (drum), are much rarer; one place that has excellent shamisen
performances is the Waentei Kikkō restaurant (see p.150).
NHK Hall /),ϗʔϧ 2-2-1 Jinnan, Shibuya-ku
T 03 3465 1751, W www.nhk-sc.or.jp/nhk_hall;
Harajuku or Shibuya stations. One of Tokyo's older
auditoria for classical concerts, but still well thought of
and home to the highly rated NHK Symphony Orchestra.
It's next to the NHK Broadcasting Centre, south of Yoyogi-
kōen. Tickets from ¥1500 to ¥2500, depending upon the
performance.
Orchard Hall Φʔνϟυϗʔϧ 2-24-1 Dōgenzaka,
Shibuya-ku T 03 3477 9111, W www.bunkamura
.co.jp; Shibuya station. This large concert hall hosts a
wide range of classical music performances throughout
the year, and has very good acoustics.
Suntory Hall Ark Hills αϯτϦʔϗʔϧ 1-13-1
Akasaka, Minato-ku T 03 3505 1001, W www.suntory
.co.jp/suntoryhall; Roppongi-Itchōme station. Reputed
to have the best acoustics in the city, this elegant concert
hall has one of the world's largest pipe organs, which is
sometimes used for free lunchtime recitals; check the
website for details of this and other events. Prices vary
by performance.
Tokyo Bunka Kaikan ౦ژจԽձؗ 5-45 Ueno,
Taitō-ku T 03 3828 2111, W t-bunka.jp; Ueno
station. Tokyo's largest classical music venue, with a
main hall that seats over 2300. It has a busy and varied
schedule of performances and a marvellous interior
dating back to the 1960s, while ticket prices tend to be
cheap. Classical music buffs should enquire about
joining their music library, which holds over 100,000
recordings, books and scores.
Tokyo International Forum ౦ژࠃࡍϑΥʔϥϜ
3-5-1 Marunouchi, Chiyoda-ku T 03 5221 9000,
W www.t-i-forum.co.jp; Yūrakuchō station. The Forum's
four multipurpose halls (including one of the world's
largest auditoria, with over five thousand seats) host an
eclectic mix of performing arts, including classical music
and opera.
Tokyo Opera City ౦ژΦϖϥγςΟ 3-20-2 Nishi-
Shinjuku, Shinjuku-ku T 03 5353 9999, W operacity.jp;
Hatsudai station. This stunningly designed concert hall,
with a giant pipe organ, seats over 1600 and has excellent
acoustics - though despite its name it hosts only music
concerts, not full-blown opera. There's a more intimate
recital hall too.
CINEMA
On Cinema Day, generally the first day of the month, all tickets cost ¥1000, as opposed to the regular price of around ¥1800,
or ¥2500 for a reserved seat ( shitei-seki ). Women can also get discounted tickets (¥1000) on Ladies Day, usually Wednesday.
Otherwise, you can buy slightly reduced tickets in advance from a ticket agency (see box, p.180). Note that the last
screening of the day is generally around 7 or 8pm. Listings are published on Friday in The Japan Times and Metropolis , which
also have reviews as well as maps locating all the major cinemas. Apart from those listed here, which tend to specialize
in independent films, there are many more cinemas in Ginza, Ikebukuro, Shibuya and Shinjuku, mostly showing the latest
Hollywood releases.
Cinema Rise γωϚϥΠζ 13-17 Udagawa-chō,
Shibuya T 03 3464 0052; Shibuya station. Avant-garde
cinema with three screens, including Rise X, which
specializes in digital film-making. A good place to catch
independent films, with big discounts for foreign students
(if they have ID).
 
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