Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
Alternatively, choose a bowl of
anmitsu
from the window
display: a colourful concoction of agar jelly, azuki beans
and sticky rice topped with a variety of fruits (and, if you're
really hungry, whipped cream or ice cream); it goes from
¥756.
Daily except Wed 10am-8pm.
GINZA AND AROUND
Cha Ginza
ۜ࠲
5-5-6 Ginza, Chiyoda-ku
T
03 3571
1211; Ginza station; map p.48.
This teahouse, run by
a tea wholesaler, offers a modern take on the business
of sipping
sencha
. Iron walls add a contemporary touch,
and the rooftop area, where they serve
matcha
, is the place
to hang out with those Tokyo ladies who make shopping
a career. ¥500 gets you two cups of the refreshing green
stuff, plus a traditional sweet.
Tues-Sun 11am-7pm.
Higashiya Ginza
౦Ոۜ࠲
2F Pola Ginza, 1-7-7 Ginza,
Chūō-ku
T
03 3538 3230; Ginza station; map p.48.
Tearoom and shop known for its relaxing atmosphere and
delicious assortments of seasonal Japanese sweets (from
¥600).
Daily 11am-9pm.
Sabō Nonohana
ͷՖ
3-7-21 Ginza, Chūō-ku
T
03 5250 9025; Ginza station; map p.48.
Lovely
tearoom on the second floor of Nonohana Tsukasa, a shop
that specializes in traditional flower arrangements and
crafts. The
teishoku
(set meal) lunches - starting at ¥800
- are beautifully presented, and the green-tea ice cream
(¥750) hard to turn down.
Mon-Sat 11am-7pm, Sun
11.30am-6pm.
Yamamotoyama
ࢁຊࢁ
2-5-2 Nihombashi, Chūō-ku
T
03 3281 0010; Nihombashi station; map p.48.
You
can sip all grades of green tea, served with either a sweet
rice cake (from ¥600) or rice cracker (from ¥400), at the
back of this venerable and very traditional tea merchant's
shop.
Daily 10am-6pm; June & July, Nov & Dec
9.30am-7pm.
AKASAKA AND ROPPONGI
Toraya Café
τϥϠΧϑΣ
Keyakizaka-dōri, 6-12-2
Roppongi, Minato-ku
T
03 5789 9811; Roppongi
station; map pp.90-91.
Stylish café specializing in
Japanese teas and sweets made from azuki beans;
figure on over ¥1000 for both the former and the latter. It's
usually busy with ladies lunching or sipping tea between
boutique visits.
Daily 10am-10pm.
15
EBISU, MEGURO AND THE SOUTH
Ganchabō
ؠ
3-15-5 Kami-Meguro, Meguro-ku
T
03 3714 7425; Naka-Meguro station; map pp.100-
101.
Housed in a lovely residential-style building in the
backstreets off Yamate-dōri, this place specializes in
Chinese teas (¥800-1600), but is also worth searching out
for its Chinese food - try the black-bean noodles (¥840).
Tues-Sun 11am-7pm.
HARAJUKU, AOYAMA AND SHIBUYA
The Sweet Dynasty
βεΠʔτσΟφεςΟ
3-5-14
Kita-Aoyama, Minato-ku
T
03 5786 1555; Omotesandō
station; map p.113.
This classy branch of a top Hong Kong
café is popular for its Chinese teas and sweets, including a
luscious mango pudding (¥777), and rice balls in a red-
bean or black sesame congee (both ¥567). They do tasty
dim sum, too.
Daily 11am-10pm.
Toraya Café
τϥϠΧϑΣʔ
6-12-2 Roppongi, Minato-ku
T
03 5789 9811; Roppongi station; map p.113.
Sister café
to the famed Roppongi branch (see above), with more or
less identical menus and clientele.
Daily 10am-10pm.
ASAKUSA
Umezono
കԂ
1-31-12 Asakusa, Taitō-ku
T
03 3841
7580; Asakusa station; map p.70.
This traditional tea
shop in the heart of Asakusa is famous for its
awa-zenzai
,
millet flour cakes wrapped in sweet azuki bean paste,
served with seeds of Japanese basil for contrast.
THE WAY OF TEA
Tea was introduced to Japan from China in the ninth century and was popularized by Zen
Buddhist monks, who appreciated its caffeine kick during their long meditation sessions.
Gradually, tea drinking developed into a formal ritual known as
cha-no-yu
, the
tea ceremony
,
whose purpose is to heighten the senses within a contemplative atmosphere.
In its simplest form the ceremony takes place in a tatami room, undecorated save for a
hanging scroll or display of
ikebana
(traditional flower arrangement). Using beautifully crafted
utensils of bamboo, iron and rustic pottery, your host will whisk
matcha
- the strong
powdered form of green tea - into a thick, frothy brew and present it to each guest in turn.
First eat the accompanying sweet (
wagashi
), then take the bowl in both hands, turn it
clockwise a couple of inches and drink it down in three slow sips.
The
Imperial
(see p.136),
New Ōtani
(see p.92) or
Ōkura
hotels (see p.138), all have traditional
rooms in which such ceremonies are regularly held; the cost will be around ¥1000. Better is the
tea ceremony at
Andon Ryokan
(see p.141; guests/non-guests ¥500/1000) where the whole
process is properly explained in English and you get to practise making tea yourself.
