Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
DINING ON THE WATER
Lunch and dinner cruises on yakatabune , low-slung traditional boats lit up with paper
lanterns, are a charming Tokyo eating institution, dating back to the Edo period. The boats
accommodate anything from sixteen to a hundred people on trips along the Sumida-gawa
and out on Tokyo Bay. For a bar-like alternative, see Jicoo (see p.170).
Amisei ͋Έਗ਼ T 03 3844 1869, W amisei.com;
map p.70. Amisei set off from the southwest side
of Azumabashi bridge, Asakusa. Two-hour evening
cruises cost ¥8000, including all the tempura you
can eat. More lavish menus can be ordered and,
naturally, charges skyrocket for cruises on the night
when Asakusa holds its annual fireworks extra-
vaganza in July.
Funasei ધਗ਼ T 03 5479 2731, W www.funasei
.com; map pp.100-101. Cruises run out of Kita-
Shinagawa and offer a choice of Japanese- and
Western-style menus for around ¥10,500 per person.
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RYŌGOKU AND KIYOSUMI
Tomoegata ೹ׁ 2-17-6 Ryōgoku, Sumida-ku T 03
3632 5600, W tomoegata.com; Ryōgoku station; map
p.77. In the heart of sumo territory, and a grand place to
head if you're off to a tournament, this is a good place to
sample chanko-nabe , the wrestlers' protein-packed meat,
seafood and vegetable stew. For around ¥3000 you can
have the full-blown meal cooked at your table, though
most people will find the smaller lunch set (¥1260; lunch
only) more than enough. It's easy to spot from its parade of
colourful flags. Daily 11.30am-2pm & 5-11pm.
Yoshiba ٢༿ 2-14-5 Yokoami, Sumida-ku T 03 3623
4480, W kapou-yoshiba.jp; Ryōgoku station; map p.77.
Set in an old sumo dōjō (practice hall; book ahead for the
prime tables around the ring), this is another atmospheric
place to come for chanko-nabe (from ¥2100; minimum two
persons). There are also set menus at ¥6300, ¥7500 and
¥8500 per person. On Mon, Wed and Fri there's live singing of
traditional songs. Mon-Sat 11.30am-1.30pm & 5-10pm.
BAYSIDE TOKYO
The Canteen 1F The Soho, 2-7-4 Aomi, Koto-ku T 03
5530 0261; Fune-no-Kagakukan station; map p.81.
Cosy up in the booths and flip through the glossy mags
with creative types at this hip o ce complex on the
Odaiba waterfront. Expect to pay around ¥1000 for
Japanese home cooking such as fried chicken and rice.
Architectural and interior direction is courtesy of design-
guru du jour Masamichi Katayama. Mon-Fri 9am-10pm,
Sat 10am-6pm.
Monkichi ΋Μ٢ 3-8-10 Tsukushima T 03 3531 2380;
Tsukishima station; map p.81. As patronized by no less
a luminary than Brad Pitt (whose photo is on the wall),
this friendly place is a classic monjayaki (see box, pp.146-
147) restaurant on an alley just off Monja-dōri. Try their
speciality, omu rice monja , for ¥950. Daily 11am-10pm.
Rāmen Kokugikan ϥʔϝϯࠃٕؗ 5F Aqua City,
1-7-1 Daiba, Minato-ku T 03 3599 4700; Odaiba
Kaihin-kōen station; map p.81. Six top rāmen noodle
chefs from around Japan square off against each other
in this cartoon-like section of Aqua City's restaurant floor.
A bowl will cost you around ¥800 (the Hakata variety,
from Fukuoka city, is well worth trying). Their outdoor
balcony boasts fantastic views across the bay towards
Tokyo's twinkling lights. Daily 11am-11pm.
Ì Sushi Bun Ეจ 5 Tsukiji, Chūō-ku T 03 3541 3860;
Tsukijishijō station; map p.81. One of the most gaijin -
friendly options among the rows of sushi stalls within
Tsukiji fish market. They have an English menu with sets
at ¥2625, though you won't regret spending ¥3675 for
their top-quality ten-piece selection including creamy uni
(sea urchin). Mon-Sat 6am-2.30pm, but closed during
occasional market holidays.
Sushi-zanmai Honten ͢͟͠Μ·͍ຊళ 4-11-9
Tsukiji Chūō-ku T 03 3541 1117; Tsukiji station; map
p.81. This is the main branch of a popular chain of sushi
restaurants run by Kimura Kiyoshi, the self-proclaimed
“King of Tuna”. It's the best kaiten-zushi operation in the
area, with plates of sushi from around ¥1000, and is open
around the clock. Daily 24hr.
Tententsunetsune Kaitenbō ఱఱৗৗճస๥ Decks
Tokyo Beach Mall, 1-6-1 Daiba, Minato-ku T 03 3599
6705; Odaiba Kaihin-kōen station; map p.81. It was
only a matter of time before some bright spark saw the
potential of the kaiten (revolving conveyor belt) for food
other than sushi. Here the colour-coded plates carry dim
sum, pretty tasty and keenly priced from ¥157 a plate.
There's a separate menu from which you can order à la
carte. Daily 11am-10.15pm.
AKASAKA AND ROPPONGI
Aux Bacchanales ΦʔόοΧφϧ 2F Ark Mori Building,
1-12-32 Akasaka, Minato-ku T 03 3582 2225, W auxbacchanales.com; Roppongi-Itchōme station;
map pp.90-91. Tucked away in the Ark Hills complex, this
 
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