Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
AKIHABARA AND AROUND
Botan
΅ͨΜ
1-15 Kanda-Sudachō, Chiyoda-ku
T
03
3251 0577; Awajichō station; map p.56.
Chicken
sukiyaki
(a stew-like dish served in a hotpot) is the order of the
day at this atmospheric old restaurant, tucked into the
backstreets of Kanda. At ¥6700 a head it's not cheap, but
this is the genuine article, where the chicken, vegetables
and tofu simmer gently over individual braziers in small
rooms.
Mon-Sat 11.30am-9pm.
Go Go Curry
ΰʔΰʔΧϨʔ
1-16-1 Kanda-Sakumachō,
Chiyoda-ku
T
03 5256 5525,
W
www.gogocurry.com;
Akihabara station; map p.56.
No doubt about it, the
o
cial meal of Akihabara regulars is
tonkatsu
curry (fried
pork cutlet on rice, smothered in curry sauce), and one of
the heartiest is at the growing
Go Go Curry
chain, whose
honten
(main branch) is, of course, in Akihabara.
Tonkatsu
curry plates start at ¥700.
Daily 9.55am-9.55pm.
Hachimaki
ͪ·͖
1-19 Kanda-Jimbōchō, Chiyoda-ku
T
03 3291 6222; Jimbōchō station; map p.56.
Sat here
since 1931, this tempura specialist is one of Tokyo's best
time-warp restaurants - ageing posters, yellowing paper
messages from the 1950s, and nary a sign that you're in
the twenty-first century. Have a crack at their delectable
tendon
, which gets you four freshly made tempura on rice
(¥800).
Daily noon-9pm.
14
UENO AND AROUND
Hantei
Μ
2-12-15 Nezu, Bunkyō-ku
T
03 3828
1440,
W
hantei.co.jp; Nezu station; map p.61.
Stylish
dining in a beautiful, three-storey wooden house. There's
only one dish,
kushiage
(deep-fried pieces of meat, fish
and vegetables skewered on sticks), served in combination
plates, six at a time: ¥2900 for the first plate (plus two
appetisers); ¥1400 thereafter, until you say stop.
Tues-Sat
noon-2.30pm & 5-10pm, Sun 11.30am-2.30pm &
4-9.30pm.
Musashino
ଂ
2-8-1 Ueno, Taitō-ku
T
03 3831
1672; Ueno-Hirokōji station; map p.61.
One of Ueno's
few remaining old-style restaurants serving
tonkatsu
,
for which the area was once famed. They come in big,
thick, melt-in-the-mouth slabs. Choose between standard
rōsu
(fatty belly meat) and the leaner
hire
(loin fillet),
both at ¥1000 including soup, rice and pickles.
Daily
11.30am-9pm.
Ì
Sasa-no-yuki
೫ઇ
2-15-10 Negishi, Taitō-ku
T
03 3873 1145,
W
sasanoyuki.com; Uguisudani
station; map p.61.
Three centuries ago, the chef here was
said to make tofu like “snow lying on bamboo leaves”, and
both the name and the quality have survived, though
the old wooden house is now marooned among flyovers.
Calm prevails over the tatami mats as you feast on
delicately flavoured silk-strained tofu. Prices are reason-
able, with most tofu plates priced at around ¥600, and full
courses starting at ¥2600 (or ¥2000 for lunch).
Tues-Sun
11.30am-9pm.
ASAKUSA
Bon
ᑓ
1-2-11 Ryusen, Taitō-ku
T
03 3872 0375,
W
fuchabon.co.jp; Iriya station; map p.70.
A rare chance
to sample
fucha ryōri
, a distinctive style of Zen Buddhist
cuisine in which each of the ornately presented vegetable
dishes is traditionally served from one large bowl, and the
meal begins and ends with tea. The setting, a charming
old Japanese house, and the calm service, make it an
experience not to be missed. Reservations essential, with
courses starting at ¥5000.
Mon & Tues, Thurs & Fri noon-
1.30pm & 5-7pm, Sat noon-7pm, Sun noon-6pm.
Chin-ya
ͪΜ
1-3-4 Asakusa, Taitō-ku
T
03 3841
0010,
W
www.chinya.co.jp; Asakusa station; map p.70.
Founded in 1880, this famous
shabu-shabu
and
sukiyaki
(styles of Japanese hotpots) restaurant offers basic lunch
sets from ¥3800, and dinner for another ¥1000 or so. The
place occupies seven floors, with more casual, and slightly
cheaper, dining in the basement.
Mon & Wed-Fri noon-
3.30pm & 4.30-9.30pm, Sat & Sun 11.30am-9pm.
Daikokuya
େࠇՈ
1-38-10 Asakusa, Taitō-ku
T
03
3844 1111 and 1-31-9 Asakusa
T
03 3844-2222;
W
tempura.co.jp; Asakusa station; map p.70.
There's
always a lunchtime queue at this venerable tempura
restaurant, set in an attractive old building. The speciality
is
tendon
- shrimp, fish and prawn fritters on a bowl of
BEAUTIFUL BANQUETS
Gourmands will not want to miss the opportunity to sample Japan's finest style of cooking,
kaiseki-ryōri
, while in Tokyo. A
kaiseki
meal consists of a series of small, carefully balanced and
beautifully presented dishes, the ingredients reflecting the seasons, served by a waitress in
kimono on exquisite china and lacquerware. It began as an accompaniment to the tea
ceremony and still retains the meticulous design of that elegant ritual. While a
kaiseki
dinner
can easily run to ¥10,000 or more, a
kaiseki
bentō (boxed lunch) is a more affordable option.
Apart from recommended restaurants such as
Kakiden
(p.157) and
Waentei-kikkō
(see p.150),
top hotels are the best places for enjoying this style of cuisine.