Vancouver, Whistler & Vancouver Island - Washington, Oregon and the Pacific Northwest - page 830

Pacific Coastal Airlines ( www.pacific-coastal.com ) services arrive in Port Hardy from Van-
couver (from $170, 75 minutes, up to four daily).
Greyhound Canada ( 800-661-8747; www.greyhound.ca ) buses roll into the northern Van-
couver Island region daily from Campbell River, Nanaimo and beyond.
BC Ferries ( 888-223-3779; www.bcferries.com ) services arrive in Port Hardy from Prince
Rupert (passenger/vehicle $195/444, 15 hours, schedules vary) via the spectacular Inside
Passage route.
North Island Transportation ( [e-mail] ) operates a handy shuttle ($8) to and from
the Port Hardy ferry terminal via area hotels.
WORTH A TRIP
TELEGRAPH COVE
Built as a one-shack telegraph station, this charming wooden village has since ex-
panded into one of northern Vancouver Island's main visitor lures. Its pioneer-out-
post feel is enhanced by the dozens of brightly painted buildings perched around
the marina on stilts. But be aware: it can get ultracrowded in summer.
Head first along the boardwalk to the smashing Whale Interpretive Centre
( www.killerwhalecentre.org ; suggested donation adult/child $3/1; 9am-5pm) , bristling with
hands-on artifacts and artfully displayed skeletons of cougars, sea otters and a gi-
ant fin whale.
You can also see whales of the live variety just offshore: this is one of the island's
top marine-life-viewing regions. Stubbs Island Whale Watching ( www.stubbs-island.com ;
adult/child $99/84) will get you up close with the orcas on a boat trek - you might also
see humpbacks, dolphins and sea lions. For a bear alternative, Tide Rip Grizzly
Tours ( www.tiderip.com ; tours $299; May-Sep) leads full-day trips to local beaches and
inlets in search of the area's furry locals.
The well-established Telegraph Cove Resorts ( 250-928-3131, 800-200-4665;
www.telegraphcoveresort.com ; campsites/cabins from $28/120) provides accommodations in
forested tent spaces and a string of rustic cabins on stilts overlooking the marina.
The nearby and much newer Dockside 29 ( 877-835-2683, 250-928-3163;
www.telegraphcove.ca ; d from $140) is a good, motel-style alternative. Its rooms have kit-
chenettes with hardwood floors and waterfront views.
The Killer Whale Café (mains $14-18; May-Sep) is the cove's best eatery - the sal-
mon, mussel and prawn linguini is recommended. The adjoining Old Saltery Pub is
an atmospheric, wood-lined nook with a cozy central fireplace and tasty Killer
Whale Pale Ale. It's a good spot to sit in a corner and pretend you're an old sea salt
- eye patch optional.