Vancouver, Whistler & Vancouver Island - Washington, Oregon and the Pacific Northwest - page 809

Duncan
Developed as a logging-industry railroad stop - the gabled little station now houses a
museum - Duncan is the valley's main community. A useful base for regional explora-
tion, it's known for its totem poles, which dot downtown like sentinels.
If your First Nations curiosity is piqued, head to the Quw'utsun' Cultural & Confer-
ence Centre ( www.quwutsun.ca ; 200 Cowichan Way; adult/child $13/6; 10am-4pm Mon-Sat
Jun-Sep) to learn about carving and traditional salmon runs. Alternatively, drive 3km
north of town to the BC Forest Discovery Centre ( www.bcforestdiscoverycentre.com ; 2892
Drink-water Rd; adult/child $16/11; 10am-4:30pm) , complete with pioneer-era buildings,
logging machinery and a working steam train.
The area's chatty hub, Duncan Garage Cafe ( www.communityfarmstore.ca ; 3330 Duncan
St; mains $4-9; 7:30am-6pm Mon-Sat, 9am-5pm Sun) is in a refurbished heritage building
that also houses a bookshop and an organic grocery store. But for a great meal, head to
the delightful Hudson's on First ( www.hudsonsonfirst.ca ; 163 First St; mains $16-26;
11am-2.30pm & 5-8.30pm Tue-Sun) , which would be a top table option in far bigger cities.
Farm-to-table local produce is the approach in an ever-changing seasonal menu that fuses
West Coast ingredients with subtle European influences.
WORTH A TRIP
CANADA'S ONLY TEA FARM
Hidden in bucolic farmland 8km north of Duncan (it's not well signposted, so de-
ploy your GPS), you'll find one of Canada's rarest agricultural operations. Tucked
into the hillside, the oasis-like Teafarm ( www.teafarm.ca ; 8530 Richards Trail, North Cowichan;
10am-5pm Wed-Sun) has been growing its own tea plants here for several years. The
main harvest is coming soon, but until that time its contemporary, winery-like tast-
ing room (or, better still, its flower-framed outdoor seating area) is the perfect spot
to indulge in one of dozens of excellent tea blends - Sweet Morocco is recommen-
ded - along with some decadent sweet treats. The tea is served in lovely hand-
made pottery teapots made by owner Margit, while husband and tea guru Victor
will be on hand to tell you about the operation. It's one of the most relaxing - and
surprisingly good-value - ways to spend an hour or two in the region.