Washington Cascades - Washington, Oregon and the Pacific Northwest - page 324

It is undocumented how many fire alarms Kerouac raised during his time in the
Cascades, though he did famously use his collected scribblings inDesolation An-
gels,published in 1965, a novel that provides a fascinating insight into both the
mountain scenery and the writer's ongoing battle with his inner demons.
It is still possible to hike the Desolation Trail up to Desolation Peak (6102ft) and
ponder the fire lookout - built in 1933 - where Kerouac passed so many hours. The
hike is 6.8 miles one way and is pretty strenuous, although you'll be richly rewarded
with the same stunning vistas that inspired the author. To complete the hike in a
day you'll need to catch a water taxi from Ross Lake Resort ( Click here ) to the trail-
head on the upper eastern side of Ross Lake. Alternatively, the hike can be incor-
porated into a longer backcountry adventure.
Eating
East 20 Pizza PIZZERIA$
(720 Hwy 20 S; pizzas from $6.50; 11:30am-9pm Jun-Sep, 3-8pm Oct-May) Who'd expect
such fine, authentic pizzas way out here? After a day in the mountains you can't get
much better than these thin-crusted, well-topped (everything from pepperoni to curried
cashews and portabello mushrooms) pies to fill the belly. Pair them with cold draft beer
and salads to enjoy on the outdoor patio. Gluten-free crusts are also available.
Sheri's CAFE$
(201 Riverside Av) This delightful alfresco cafe and ice-cream parlor adjacent to Sheri's
Sweet Shoppe is the best place to snatch an espresso and a hot, sticky cinnamon bun. In
keeping with the surroundings, the bar stools are made out of horse saddles and behind
the coffee cabin you can enjoy a quick round of crazy golf while they blast steam into
your grande cappuccino.
Old Schoolhouse Brewing PUB$$$
( www.oldschoolhousebrewery.com ; 155 Riverside Ave; mains $9-14; 4-8pm Mon-Thu, 4-10pm Fri,
noon-10pm Sat, noon-8pm Sun) Carb-load on beer in this unusual pub that occupies a
former little red schoolhouse on the main street. You can choose from an impressive
range of homebrewed ales; aficionados opt for the light-bodied Black Canyon Porter or
the heavier, darker Grampa Clem's Brown Ale. Classic pub-grub highlights include out-
law chili, and fish and chips with a Japanese twist. There's live music and an open mic
on Friday.