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furbished 1928 Presbyterian church, with sloped ceilings and nine exquisite guest rooms.
The parlor has an old grandfather clock, plus you can enjoy the delights of a compliment-
ary breakfast and wine. The inn is set in woodland, an easy walk from Ilwaco port.
OleBob's Seafood Market SEAFOOD$
(151 Howerton Way; mains around $9; 10am-5:30pm Thu-Mon; ) Overlooking the marina,
this salt-of-the-sea fish market and cafe serves up fresh-off-the-boat fish and chips,
amazing fish tacos, clam chowder and the best crab cakes…ever.
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Vancouver
POP 164,759
While the TV show Portlandia 's first episode sings about saving the planet and hot girls
in glasses, the YouTube spoof Vancouvria , about Portland's neighbor across the bridge,
waxes about coffee at McDonald's and hot dads wearing Old Navy. The town (even
though it's the fourth-largest metropolis in Washington) is often seen as a glorified sub-
urb of Portland and - maybe worse - is forever confused with its much more glamorous,
Olympic-hosting namesake to the north (yes, the occasional BC-bound traveler still rolls
in here assuming they've reached Canada). Recent efforts to rename it have been met
with both enthusiasm and mirth (Fort Vancouver was the most popular choice), but the
gutsy citizens have put on a brave face. Aside from a talent for self-deprecation, Van-
couver, WA, offers pioneer history, a decent weekend farmers market, and the oldest sur-
viving fort in the Pacific Northwest. Go on, give it a whirl.
Sights & Activities
Vancouver National Historic Reserve HISTORIC RESERVE
( www.fortvan.org ) Situated within easy walking distance of the city center is Vancouver's -
and one of Washington's - most important historical monuments. Comprising an archae-
ological site, the region's first military post, a waterfront trail and one of the nation's old-
est operating airfields, the complex's highlight is the reconstructed Fort Vancouver His-
toric Site ( www.nps.gov/fova ; adult/family $3/5; 9am-5pm) .
At the reconstructed fort, resident rangers and actors in period costume skillfully sum-
mon up the era from 1825 to 1845, when the fort was under the sole administration of the
British Hudson's Bay Company (the so-called Oregon Country was run jointly by the
 
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