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are the few along the water at Bowman Bay. Reserve well ahead for summer weekends,
as competition can be fierce.
Oak Harbor
POP 22,239
There are two main distinctions between the San Juan Islands and Whidbey Island. First,
Whidbey has a mainland bridge connection (via Deception Pass) and second, it has Oak
Harbor, a modern mishmash of boxlike chain stores and recent urban development that
looks rather like a Seattle suburb. Dominated by Naval Air Station Whidbey Island, com-
pleted in 1942, Oak Harbor is a military town with a distinguished Irish and Dutch herit-
age dating back to the late 19th century. Today it accommodates the island's largest mar-
ina, a notable playhouse and - surprise, surprise - plenty of indigenous Garry oak trees.
Ever keen to shake off its lackluster image, Oak Harbor has embarked upon a major
charm offensive in recent years, with a redevelopment plan emphasizing its nautical her-
itage and waterfront amenities.
Holland Happenings
is held during the last week in
April when the tulips are still in bloom.
Oak Harbor's most 'culturally distinctive' and great-value lodging is the
Auld Holland
the town's Dutch heritage that dominates SR-20 with its towering old-fashioned wind-
mill. Run by a family from the Netherlands, the rooms and service here live up to their
European promise, and extra bonuses include an outdoor swimming pool, a gym, a chil-
dren's playground and a gift shop that sells clogs. The hotel also has a good on-site res-
taurant.
The helpful
Oak Harbor Visitor Center
(32630 State Rte 20; 10am-5pm Mon-Fri)
, situ-
ated on the main drag through town, should be able to put you straight on the town's not-
so-obvious attractions.
Coupeville
POP 1842
This picturesque fishing community is what the island is all about: an antique pier, fresh
mussels and clams, old-world B&Bs, historic clapboard shopfronts and instant access to
a National Historic Reserve (the village actually sits on the eastern edge of Ebey's Land-
ing National Historical Reserve). For those who thought Whidbey Island began and
ended at Deception Pass (and there are quite a few), think again!
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