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( www.beechershandmadecheese.com ; 1600 Pike Pl; snacks $3-5; 9am-6pm; Westlake) Ar-
tisan beer, artisan coffee…next up, Seattle brings you artisan cheese and it's made as you
watch in this always-crowded Pike Place nook, where you can buy all kinds of cheese-re-
lated paraphernalia. As for that long, snaking, almost permanent queue - that's people
lining up for the wonderful homemade mac 'n' cheese that comes in two different-size
tubs and is simply divine.
Ivar's Acres of Clams SEAFOOD$
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( 206-624-6852; www.ivars.com ; 1001 Alaskan Way, Pier 54; fish & chips $8-9; 11am-10pm
Sun-Thu, to 11pm Fri & Sat; ; University St) Ivar Haglund was a beloved local character
famous for silly promotional slogans ('Keep clam!'), but he sure knew how to fry up fish
and chips. Ivar's is a Seattle institution that started in 1938, and its founder still stands
sentinel at the door (albeit as a statue).
Forgo the dining room for the outdoor lunch counter; the chaotic ordering system in-
volves a lot of yelling, but it seems to work, and then you can enjoy your clam strips or
fish and chips outdoors on the pier. The tradition at Ivar's is to feed chips to the seagulls,
who'll swoop down and take them out of your hand.
Lowells DINER$
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( www.eatatlowells.com ; 1519 Pike Pl; mains $6-9; 7am-6pm; Westlake) 'Fish and chips' is
a simple meal often done badly - but not here. Slam down your order for Alaskan cod at
the front entry and take it up to the top floor for delicious views over Puget Sound. It also
serves corned-beef hash and an excellent clam chowder.
Pink Door Ristorante ITALIAN$$$
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( 206-443-3241; 1919 Post Alley; mains $16-24; 11:30am-10pm Mon-Thu, to 11pm Fri & Sat,
4-10pm Sun; Westlake) A restaurant like no other, the Pink Door is probably the only
place in the US (the world?) where you can enjoy fabulous linguine alla vongole (pasta
with clams and pancetta) and other Italian favorites while watching live jazz, burlesque
caberet or - we kid you not - a trapeze artist swinging from the 20ft ceiling.
Steelhead Diner SEAFOOD$$$
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