Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
Begin in the south in
Sweetwater
, along I-20, some 40 miles west of Abilene. Long and
lonely vistas of lush ranch land await as you drive north on Hwy 70. About 55 miles
north, turn west at the T-junction with US 380 and drive 5 miles to the nearly evaporated
ghost town of
Claremont
. About all that remains is a red stone jail, which could be a movie
set.
Return east and rejoin Hwy 70. Some 40 miles of occasional rivers, scattered annuities
(oil wells) and countless cattle later, you're in the modestly named hamlet of
Spur
. Most of
the once-proud brick structures downtown are barely hanging on, like a chimney with bad
grout. Stop into
Dixie Dog Drive-In
(216 W Hill St; mains from $3; 8am-8pm)
for a timeless small-
town fast-food experience. The chili cheeseburger is the bomb.
Just another 11 miles north brings you to the seat of Dickens County:
Dickens
. Another
fading burg, here you can still sense the pride of the original settlers in the massive court-
house built from carved limestone. Catch up on all the gossip at
TC's Ponderosa
(
806-623-5260; 136 US 82; mains from $5; 7am-8pm)
, which is inside the a gas station. Great bar-
becue is served up simply on Formica tables. Try the hot links and get a pickled egg and a
pineapple pudding for the road.
From here it is nearly 57 miles almost due north through verdant cattle and cotton coun-
try to your ultimate destination,
Turkey
. Pause in towns such as
Roaring Springs
in Motley
County for smatterings of tiny shops that will never attract the attention of Wal-Mart.
TOP OF CHAPTER
Turkey
POP 380
The lovely lady in city hall told us that 'people are dying too quick.' And indeed, like the
flight path of its namesake bird, Turkey has been descending for decades. But amid the
grizzled streets is a not-to-be-missed cultural attraction.
'As heaven would miss the stars above. With every heartbeat I still think of you,' sang
Bob Wills in his iconic song 'Faded Love.' One of the most important Texas musicians,
his life is recalled at the
Bob Wills Museum
( 806-423-1146;
www.turkeytexas.net
; 9-11:30am &
1-4:30pm Mon-Fri, 9am-noon Sat)
. Located in the old elementary school (which also has
the tiny city hall and library), the recently redone displays cover much of Wills' adventur-
ous life, which included a string of B-movie Westerns. But it's the music that survives.
