Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
VISITING MARAE
As you travel around the North Island, you will see many
marae
complexes. Often
marae
are owned by a descent
group. They are also owned by urban Maori groups, schools, universities and church groups, and they should
only be visited by arrangement with the owners. Some
marae
that may be visited include
Huria Marae
(
Click
here
) in Tauranga;
Koriniti Marae
(
Click here
)
on the Whanganui River Rd;
Te Manuka Tutahi Marae
(
Click
here
) in Whakatane; and
Te Papa
(
Click here
) in Wellington.
Marae
complexes include a
wharenui
(meeting house), which often embodies an ancestor. Its ridge is the back-
bone, the rafters are ribs, and it shelters the descendants. There is a clear space in front of the
wharenui
(ie the
marae atea
). Sometimes there are other buildings: a
wharekai
(dining hall); a toilet and shower block; perhaps
even classrooms, play equipment and the like.
Hui
(gatherings) are held at
marae
. Issues are discussed, classes conducted, milestones celebrated and the dead
farewelled.
Te reo Maori
(the Maori language) is prominent, sometimes exclusively so.
Visitors sleep in the meeting house if a
hui
goes on for longer than a day. Mattresses are placed on the floor,
someone may bring a guitar, and stories and jokes always go down well as the evening stretches out…
The Powhiri
If you visit a
marae
as part of an organised group, you'll be welcomed in a
powhiri
(formal welcome). The more
common ones are outlined here.
There may be a
wero
(challenge). Using
taiaha
(quarter-staff) moves, a warrior will approach the visitors and
place a baton on the ground for a visitor to pick up.
There is a
karanga
(ceremonial call). A woman from the host group calls to the visitors and a woman from the
visitors responds. Their long, high, falling calls begin to overlap and interweave and the visiting group walks on
to the
marae atea.
It is then time for
whaikorero
(speechmaking). The hosts welcome the visitors, the visitors respond. Speeches
are capped off by a
waiata
(song), and the visitors' speaker places
koha
(gift, usually an envelope of cash) on the
marae
. The hosts then invite the visitors to
hariru
(shake hands) and
hongi
(press foreheads together). Visitors
and hosts are now united and will share light refreshments or a meal.
The Hongi
Press forehead and nose together firmly, shake hands, and perhaps offer a greeting such as '
Kia ora'
or '
Tena
koe'
. Some prefer one press (for two or three seconds, or longer), others prefer two shorter (press, release, press).
Men and women sometimes kiss on one cheek. Some people mistakenly think the
hongi
is a pressing of noses
only (awkward to aim!) or the rubbing of noses (even more awkward).
Tapu
Tapu
(spiritual restrictions) and
mana
(power and prestige) are taken seriously in the Maori world. Sit on chairs
or seating provided (never on tables), and walk around people, not over them. The
powhiri
is
tapu,
and mixing
food and
tapu
is right up there on the offence-o-meter. Do eat and drink when invited to do so by your hosts. You
needn't worry about starvation: an important Maori value is
manaakitanga
(kindness).
Depending on the area, the
powhiri
has gender roles: women
karanga
(call), men
whaikorero
(orate); women
lead the way on to the
marae,
men sit on the
paepae
(the speakers' bench at the front). In a modern context, the
debate around these roles continues.
