Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
The name Te Urewera still has the capacity to make Pakeha (white) New Zealanders
feel slightly uneasy - and not just because it translates as 'The Burnt Penis'. There's
something primal and untamed about this wild woodland, with its rich history of Maori
resistance.
The local Tuhoe people - prosaically known as the 'Children of the Mist' - never
signed the Treaty of Waitangi and fought with Rewi Maniapoto at Orakau during the
Waikato Wars. The army of Te Kooti took refuge here during running battles with govern-
ment troops. The claimant of Te Kooti's spiritual mantle, Rua Kenana, led a thriving com-
munity beneath the sacred mountain Maungapohatu (1366m) from 1905 until his politic-
ally motivated 1916 arrest. This effectively erased the last bastion of Maori independence
in the country. Maungapohatu never recovered, and only a small settlement remains.
Nearby, Ruatahuna's extraordinary Mataatua Marae celebrates Te Kooti's exploits.
Tuhoe remain proud of their identity and traditions, with around 40% still speaking
te
reo
(the language) on a regular basis.
Activities
Lake Waikaremoana Track
This 46km, three- to four-day tramp scales the spectacular Panekiri Bluff (1180m), with
open panoramas interspersed with fern groves and forest. The walk is rated as moderate
with the only difficult section being the Panekiri ascent, and during summer it can get
busy.
Although it's a year-round track, winter rain deters many people and makes conditions
much more challenging. At this altitude (580m above sea level), temperatures can drop
quickly, even in summer. Walkers should take portable stoves and fuel as there are no
cooking facilities en route.
There are five
huts
(adult/child $32/free) and
campsites
(per night adult/child $14/free)
spaced along the track, all of which must be prebooked through DOC, regardless of the
season. Book at regional DOC offices, i-SITEs or online at
www.greatwalks.co.nz
.
If you have a car, it is safest to leave it at the Lake Waikaremoana Motor Camp or Big
Bush Holiday Park then take a water taxi to the trailheads. Alternatively, you can take the
fully catered, three-night guided tour offered by the enthusiastic and experienced
Walking
Legends
(
07-312 5297, 0800 925 569;
www.walkinglegends.com
; tours $1390)
.
