Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
Nearby, heaven is a tub of homemade macadamia and honey ice cream at Pacific Coast
Macadamias ( 07-325 2960; www.macanuts.co.nz ; SH35, Whanarua Bay; snacks $3-9; 10am-3pm, extended
hours Dec-Feb) , with views along one of the most spectacular parts of the coast. Toasted
sandwiches and nutty sweet treats make this a great lunch stop. Opening hours can be
sketchy - call ahead.
Intertwined with ancient pohutukawa trees, the absolute seafront Maraehako Bay Retreat (
07-325 2648; www.maraehako.co.nz ; SH35, Maraehako Bay; dm/s/d $28/43/66; ) is a hostel that looks
like it was cobbled together from flotsam and jetsam washed up in the craggy cove. It's
rustic, but unique: what it lacks in crossed Ts and dotted Is it more than makes up for in
manaakitanga (hospitality). Enjoy a spa under the stars ($5), free kayaks, as well as fish-
ing charters, marae tours and guided walks (and no TV!), all at reasonable prices. Run by
the same hapu (subtribe) as the retreat, Maraehako Camping Ground ( 07-325 2901; SH35, Marae-
hako Bay; sites per adult/child $12/8) offers clean toilets, showers, pohutukawa trees and beach-
front nirvana.
At Papatea Bay stop to see the gateway of Hinemahuru Marae , intricately carved with images
of WWI Maori Battalion soldiers. Nearby Christ Church Raukokore (1894) is a sweet beacon
of belief on a lonely promontory. There are services at 11am on Sundays, or the door is
usually open at other times (look for the mouse on high).
Waihau Bay has a petrol pump at its western end, alongside the Waihau Bay Lodge (
07-325
3805; www.thewaihaubaylodge.co.nz ; Orete Point Rd, Waihau Bay; mains $25-35; 4pm-late Sun-Wed, 2pm-late
Thu-Sat) , an old two-storey timber pub by the pier, serving hefty meals and with accom-
modation ranging from campsites ($15) to dorms ($35) and en suite units sleeping eight
(double $185, extra person $25). There is also accommodation at Oceanside Apartments (
07-325 3699; www.waihaubay.co.nz ; 10932 SH35, Waihau Bay; d from $110; ) , comprising two nicely
kept motel units and a next-door bach (holiday home). Meals by arrangement.
Some 17km beyond Waihau Bay, Whangaparaoa (Cape Runaway) , where kumara was first
introduced to NZ, can only be reached on foot.
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