Auckland - New Zealand's North Island - page 169

HAURAKI GULF ISLANDS
The Hauraki Gulf, stretching between Auckland and the Coromandel Peninsula, is dotted
with motu (islands) and gives the Bay of Islands stiff competition in the beauty stakes.
Some islands are only minutes from the city and make excellent day trips. Wine-soaked
Waiheke and volcanic Rangitoto really shouldn't be missed. Great Barrier requires more ef-
fort (and cash) to get to, but provides an idyllic escape from modern life.
There are 47 islands in the Hauraki Gulf Maritime Park, administered by DOC. Some are
good-sized islands, others are no more than rocks jutting out of the sea. They're loosely put
into two categories: recreation and conservation. The recreation islands can easily be vis-
ited and their harbours are dotted with yachts in summer. The conservation islands,
however, have restricted access. Permits are required to visit some, while others are closed
refuges for the preservation of rare plants and animals, especially birds.
The gulf is a busy highway for marine mammals. Sei, minke and Bryde's whales are reg-
ularly seen in its outer reaches, along with orcas and bottlenose dolphins. You might even
spy a passing humpback.
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Rangitoto & Motutapu Islands
POP 75
Sloping elegantly from the waters of the gulf, 259m Rangitoto ( www.rangitoto.org ) , the largest
and youngest of Auckland's volcanic cones, provides a picturesque backdrop to all of the
city's activities. As recently as 600 years ago it erupted from the sea and was probably act-
ive for several years before settling down. Maori living on Motutapu (Sacred Island;
www.motutapu.org.nz ) , to which Rangitoto is now joined by a causeway, certainly witnessed the
eruptions, as footprints have been found embedded in ash, and oral history details several
generations living here before the eruption.
Rangitoto makes for a great day trip. Its harsh scoria slopes hold a surprising amount of
flora (including the world's largest pohutukawa forest) and there are excellent walks, but
you'll need sturdy shoes and plenty of water. Although it looks steep, up close it's shaped
more like an egg sizzling in a pan. The walk to the summit only takes an hour and is rewar-
ded with sublime views. At the top a loop walk goes around the crater's rim. A walk to lava