Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
DON'T MISS
INDEPENDENCE PASS
Looming at 12,095ft,
Independence Pass
(Hwy 82; late May-Oct) is one of the more high-profile mountain
passes along the Continental Divide. Perhaps it's the proximity to Aspen (just 20 miles away on Hwy 82), or
maybe it's the celeb quotient (Kevin Costner lives on its western slope). But we think it's the drive itself.
A narrow ribbon of road swerves above the timberline with gentle then hairpin turns. Views range from pretty
to stunning to downright cinematic, and by the time you glimpse swaths of snow along the ridges just below the
knife edge of peaks you'll be living in your own IMAX film. Late season you'll see everyone from bow hunters
dressed in camo gear and last-gasp family vacationers (or a cocktail of the two) to two kinds of bikers: unshaven
Harley riders with frayed bedrolls on the tailgate, and leg-shaven millionaire road bikers with iPhones in their
saddle bags.
A paved nature trail wanders off the parking area at the top of the pass. It's tundra country up here, so dress
warmly and stay on trails lest you cause decades of unknowable damage in a single step.
If you've got some mountaineering experience, consider climbing 14,336ft
La Plata Peak
(
www.14ers.com
;
Jun-Sep), the state's 5th highest. The trail leaves from South Fork Lake Trailhead on the eastern slope of
Independence Pass. From the parking area, walk over the bridge and continue on the fire road for about a quarter
of a mile to find a trailhead sign on the left. There's a trail fork about 100m after crossing the bridge over La Plata
Gulch. Stay right on the main trail and follow it up to the top. It starts out mellow, but soon intensifies - once you
reach Ellingwood Ridge, it's almost all class 3 the rest of the way up, with moderate exposure in places. It's a
9.5-mile round-trip, but you'll need extra time to traverse the ridge. Note that this is definitely not a climb for be-
ginners .
There are some fantastic eastern slope campgrounds to stay at if you're here to climb the peak. Both
Parry
Peak Campground
(Hwy 82; tent sites $15;
Jun-Aug), 2.5 miles west of Twin Lakes, and the stunning
Twin
Peaks Campground
(Hwy 82; tent sites $15;
Jun-Aug;
), nestled at the base of two peaks, have great
locations and are first-come, first-served.
Sleeping & Eating
HOTEL
$$
Twin Lakes Lodge
( 719-486-7965;
www.thetwinlakesinn.com
;
6435 Hwy 82; r $100-160, cabin from $250, all incl breakfast; )
Over 130 years old, this green-shuttered inn was reopened in 2013 after three years of res-
toration. Some rooms are on the small side and not all have private bathrooms, but you
can't argue with the lakeside location. The downstairs restaurant (lunch $7 to $12, dinner
$15 to $27) and saloon is the main hangout in Twin Lakes.
Getting There & Away
Twin Lakes is 37 miles from Aspen, just over Independence Pass (open late May through
October) on Hwy 82. Hwy 24 is just east of the lakes, providing access to Leadville (22
miles north) and Buena Vista (26 miles south).