Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
WORTH A TRIP
HIGHWAY 133
We dare you to drive down Hwy 133 and not fall in love with Colorado all over again. The scenery around Aspen
may be more dramatic, but there's something about this quiet stretch of road that manages to capture that one-of-
a-kind Rocky Mountain high.
Redstone
Wedged between Chair Mountain and Mt Sopris, Redstone was a true company town, quite unlike the 'every man
for himself' spirit of the Gold Rush era. Founded in 1890 by John C Osgood, multimillionaire and head of the
Colorado Fuel & Iron Company, Redstone was one of the early experiments in welfare capitalism, where workers
were provided with higher standards of living but discouraged from forming unions. The town was created to car-
bonize coal from Coalbasin Mine, and the first thing you'll see as you drive up the highway are the remains of
some 50 beehive coke ovens, lined up across from the town entrance. When the mine closed in 1909, the town
was virtually abandoned overnight, though new residents have since moved in over the past few decades.
Several of the original buildings are still standing, including the original chalet-style workers' cottages and Os-
good's personal residence, the 42-room Redstone Castle ( www.redstonecastle.us ; adult/child $15/10; tours
1:30pm daily summer, weekends only rest of year), located 1 mile south of town on a private road (open for tours
only). You can even stay at the imposing neo-Tudor Redstone Inn (
970-963-2526; www.redstoneinn.com ;
82 Redstone Blvd; r $99-220;
), which was built in 1902 as a dormitory to house bachelor
workers.
However, the best lodging in the area is the kick-back Avalanche Ranch ( 877-963-9339;
www.avalancheranch.com ; 12863 Hwy 133; cabins $150-230; ). Set on the back of Mt Sopris along-
side Avalanche Creek (north of Redstone), the ranch offers 13 cabins, one gypsy wagon ($85 per night) and a
ranch house. Cabins are well appointed with kitchens, sleeping lofts and front porches, but the real appeal here
are the three geothermal pools (adult/child $15/10 Mon, Tue & Thu, adult/child $18/12 Fri-Sun, free for guests;
9am-5pm Thu-Tue) lined with river rocks - they're one of the most scenic natural-style hot springs in the
state that don't require a long hike. They are open to nonguests, but you must reserve. Cabins require a three-
night minimum stay in summer.
Crystal
One of Colorado's most famous ghost towns, Crystal is also one of the most photogenic, though it is smack in the
middle of nowhere - which is certainly a good thing, as long as you're up for the detour.
The first mining in the area took place in the 1860s, but access was so poor it wasn't until the 1880s that it
really picked up. By 1893 there were a half-dozen mines producing silver, lead and zinc and the population
spiked at several hundred. Despite having been virtually abandoned by 1915, there are several fairly intact struc-
tures still standing, including the iconic Crystal Mill , a turn-of-the-century power generator.
To get here, you'll need to pass through tiny Marble , whose quarry (still in operation) supplied stone for some
of the most famous statuary in the US, including the Lincoln Memorial and Tomb of the Unknown Soldier. Out
West Guides ( 970-963-5525; www.outwestguides.com ; 7500 County Rd 3; horseback rides per hr from $50)
runs a variety of horseback riding and fishing trips from town.
Marble is located 28 miles south of Carbondale, about 6 miles up County Rd 3. After Marble the dirt road to
Crystal is another 6 miles, but you'll need a high-clearance 4WD vehicle to make the trip; it is only accessible
from June to November. If your car isn't up to the task, contact Crystal River Jeep Tours (
970-963-1991;
www.smithfamilycolorado.com ; 575 W Park St; tours per person $90;
Jun-Nov) or consider hiking it. The
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