Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
OMONIA AND EXARCHEIA
Exarcheia and Omonia are among Athens' oldest, most well-worn districts.
Though neither qualifies as beautiful, both are steeped in history, some of it
quite recent. In 1973, the Polytechnic student uprising in Exarcheia was
crushed by the junta, but it did eventually lead to the fall of the hated milit-
ary dictatorship. The students left behind a neighbourhood full of cafés alive
with political debate; this is also the best place to hear rembetika, the gritty
Greek blues. Below Exarcheia is seedy, clamorous Omonia, and just beyond
is the colourful marketplace district.
1. CENTRAL MARKET
The enormous meat, fish and spice markets are a sensory overload that shouldn't be
missed by any but the most squeamish. Several restaurants and even a rembetatiko
dot the meat market, serving until dawn. Outside, the air around the spice stores,
centred on Athinas, is redolent with vanilla, saffron and dried mountain thyme.
7am-3pm Mon-Sat
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2. PLATEIA KLAFTHMONOS
This square has long played a role in Athens' political history. Its name comes from
the ancient Greek word for “crying”, which is applied here because of the tradition
of politicians commiserating at this square if they have suffered election losses. It is
also a site of rallies, demonstrations and concerts.
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