Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
First up is the
Schwarzwaldstube
( 07442-4920;
www.traube-tonbach.de
;
Tonbachstrasse
237, Baiersbronn-Tonbach; menus €155-189; closed Mon, Tue, lunch Wed)
, with big forest
views from its rustically elegant dining room. Here Harald Wohlfahrt performs culinary magic,
staying true to the best traditions of French cooking, sourcing carefully and adding his own creative
flourishes. The tasting menu goes with the seasons but you might begin with a palate-awakening
carpaccio of wild salmon and scallops with ginger-lime marinade, say, followed by saddle of ven-
ison served two ways. If you fancy getting behind the stove, sign up for one of the
cookery classes
(€140-180; 10am Mon & Tue)
, which revolve around a theme such as cooking with crusta-
ceans, asparagus, goose or truffles, or techniques like pasta-making and preparing pâtés.
Equally legendary is the
Restaurant Bareiss
( 07442-470;
www.bareiss.com
;
Gärtenbühl-
weg 14, Baiersbronn-Mitteltal; menus €125-185; Wed-Sun)
. Claus-Peter Lumpp has consist-
ently won plaudits for his brilliantly composed, French-inflected menus. On paper, dishes such as
braised Bresse chicken with nut-butter foam and almond macaroon with pineapple and dill seem
deceptively simple; on the plate they become things of beauty, rich in textures and aromas and
presented with an artist's eye for detail.
Getting There & Away
The B294 follows the Kinzig from Freudenstadt to Haslach, from where the B33 leads
north to Offenburg. If you're going south, pick up the B33 to Triberg and beyond in
Hausach.
An hourly train line links Freudenstadt with Offenburg (€14.40, 1¼ hours), stopping in
Alpirsbach (€3.25, 16 minutes), Schiltach (€5.50, 27 minutes), Hausach (€7.50, 43
minutes), Haslach (€9.10, 49 minutes) and Gengenbach (€12.20, one hour). From
Hausach, trains run roughly hourly southeast to Triberg (€5.50, 22 minutes), Villingen
(€11.10, 47 minutes) and Konstanz (€27.10, two hours).
Alpirsbach
07444 / POP 6580
Lore has it that Alpirsbach is named after a quaffing cleric who, when a glass of beer
slipped clumsily from his hand and rolled into the river, exclaimed:
All Bier ist in den
Bach!
(All the beer is in the stream!). A prophecy, it seems, as today Alpirsbacher Klos-
terbräu is brewed from pure spring water .
Brewery tours
( 670;
