Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
Passau
0851 / POP 50,600
Water has quite literally shaped the picturesque town of Passau on the border with Aus-
tria. Its Altstadt is stacked atop a narrow peninsula that jabs its sharp end into the conflu-
ence of three rivers: the Danube, the Inn and the Ilz. The rivers brought wealth to Passau,
which for centuries was an important trading centre, especially for Bohemian salt, central
Europe's 'white gold'. Christianity, meanwhile, generated prestige as Passau evolved into
the largest bishopric in the Holy Roman Empire. The Altstadt remains pretty much as it
was when the powerful prince-bishops built its tight lanes, tunnels and archways with an
Italiante flourish, but the western end (around Nibelungenplatz) has received a modern
makeover with shopping malls centred around the hang-glider-shaped central bus station
(ZOB).
Passau is a Danube river cruise halt and is often bursting with day visitors. It's also the
convergence point of several long-distance cycling routes.
Sights
Dom St Stephan
( 6.30am-7pm)
The green onion domes of Passau's Dom St Stephan float serenely
above the town's silhouette. There's been a church in this spot since the late 5th century,
but what you see today is much younger thanks to the great fire of 1662, which ravaged
much of the medieval town, including the ancient cathedral. The rebuilding job went to a
team of Italians, notably the architect Carlo Lurago and the stucco master Giovanni Bat-
tista Carlone. The result is a rather top-heavy baroque interior with a pious mob of saints
and cherubs gazing down at the congregation from countless cornices, capitals and arch-
ways.
The building's acoustics are perfect for its pièce de résistance, the world's largest organ
above the main entrance, which contains an astonishing 17,974 pipes. Half-hour
organ
recitals
take place at noon daily Monday to Saturday (adult/child €4/2) and at 7.30pm on
Thursday (adult/child €5/3) from May to October and for a week around Christmas. Show
up at least 30 minutes early to ensure you get a seat.
CHURCH
Veste Oberhaus
(
www.oberhausmuseum.de
;
adult/concession €5/4; 9am-5pm Mon-Fri, 10am-6pm Sat
& Sun mid-Mar-mid-Nov)
A 13th-century defensive fortress, built by the prince-bishops,
FORTRESS
