Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
Regensburg
€12.20, 40 minutes, at least hourly
STRAUBING
Some 30km southeast of Regensburg, Straubing enjoyed a brief heyday as part of a wonky alliance
that formed the short-lived Duchy of Straubing-Holland. As a result, the centre is chock-a-block
with historical buildings that opened new horizons in a small town. In August, the demand for fold-
ing benches soars during the Gäubodenfest, a 10-day blow-out that once brought together grain
farmers in 1812, but now draws over 20,000 drinkers.
Lined with pastel-coloured houses from a variety of periods, the pedestrian square is lorded over
by the Gothic
Stadtturm
(1316). It stands next to the richly gabled
Rathaus
, originally two mer-
chant's homes but repackaged in neo-Gothic style in the 19th century. Just east of the tower is the
gleaming golden
Dreifaltigkeitssäule
(Trinity Column), erected in 1709 as a nod to Catholic up-
heavals during the War of the Spanish Succession.
Straubing has about half a dozen historic churches. The most impressive is
St Jakobskirche
(Pfarrplatz)
, a late-Gothic hall church with original stained-glass windows; it was the recipient of a
baroque makeover, courtesy of the frantically productive Asam brothers. The pair also designed the
interior of the
Ursulinenkirche
(Burggasse)
, their final collaboration. Its ceiling fresco depicts the
martyrdom of St Ursula surrounded by allegorical representations of the four continents known at
the time. Also worth a look is the nearby
Karmelitenkirche
(Hofstatt)
.
North of here is the former ducal residence
Herzogsschloss
(Schlossplatz)
, which overlooks the
river. This rather austere 14th-century building was once the town's tax office.
One of Germany's most important repositories of Roman treasure is the intimate
Gäubodenmu-
seum
( 974 10;
www.gaeubodenmuseum.de
; Frauenhoferstrasse 23; adult/concession €4/3;
10am-4pm Tue-Sun)
. Displays include imposing armour and masks for both soldiers and horses,
probably plundered from a Roman store.
If you fancy staying over, the
tourist office
( 944 307;
www.straubing.de
; Theresienplatz 2;
9am-5pm Mon-Wed & Fri, 9am-6pm Thu, 10am-2pm Sat)
can find rooms.
Straubing has direct train connections to Regensburg (€9.10, 25 minutes, hourly). For Passau
(€14.40, one hour and 10 minutes, hourly) and Munich (€24.90, two hours, twice hourly) change at
Plattling or Neufahrn.