Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
hauling him barefoot around the city streets? There is a drawback:
most of these vehicles are piloted by maniacs. I was approached by
a short man with a crazy smile, no shoes, and a filthy tea towel
wrapped around hair that shot out like black palm fronds.
'Autoauto?' he said, as if it meant something. I had the address of
a cheap hotel, the Bombay Ananda Bhavan (literally the 'Bombay
Bliss House') on Grant Road. I asked him if he knew the place.
He nodded in that unreassuring South Indian manner and hefted
my bag over to the buggylike rear of his machine. Then he
proceeded to get into a nasty argument with one of his colleagues, a
man who could have been his twin, that was clearly related to my
custom and seemed to reach the verge of blows but went no further.
Cursing and spitting red gobs of betel-nut juice through rusty-
looking teeth, the driver finally kick-started his sputtering engine
and we took off like a gnat in high wind. I bounced from side to side
like a bell clapper until I learned to brace myself with steel struts
supporting the auto's canvas roof. Between the driver's handlebars
and the murky windshield were attached several small framed
portraits of gods and film stars. In their midst, an incense holder
held two burning joss-sticks emitting a smell like charred bubble-
gum.
We turned abruptly onto a broad boulevard teeming with every
vehicle known to humankind, entering the vast honking caravan
like a weaver's shuttle. I wondered if my driver had a personal
problem with everything and everyone else on the road. When I
dared to look, there were faded but elegant Raj-era bungalows -
some, in their cuteness of detail, almost gingerbread houses - on
either side. The bungalows of Bangalore attained enough fame to
have once merited a picture book of that name, but were not famous
enough to survive into the nineties. With its tolerable climate and
strategic position in the centre of the South, the city was a major
army base during colonial times - indeed, was still a significant
base in the third decade of independence. As the focal point of
Karnataka state, Bangalore, which borders communist-influenced
Kerala to the west and the troublesome and occasionally separatist-
minded states of Tamil Nadu and Andhra Pradesh to the east, is still
