Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
amazingly, as pedestrians sidestepped out of the paths of vehicles
and animals with the skill and grace of matadors. Flower sellers
hawked their garlands of fresh jasmine, strolling from shopfront to
doorway around wood-framed string beds, many still containing
their occupants, stretching, or shaving, or smoking beedies, or
sipping chai from tiny glasses.
A tailor sat beneath a peepul tree, one foot pumping the pedal of
a sewing machine, his hands guiding a length of orange fabric past
the needle. Here a fat Brahmin with ritual bands freshly painted
across his forehead did puja before a tiny shrine to Ganesh, the
elephant god, the remover of obstacles, lighting a fistful of joss-
sticks and hanging a mala of yellow flowers around the statue's
neck. There an ancient toothless woman squatted on a burlap square
upon which, arranged in neat rows like soldiers, she offered perhaps
a hundred small green chilli peppers for sale. Here a man repaired
sandals, his workbench a portable box placed on a low whitewashed
wall. There another man, wearing only a bandage of soiled linen
around his groin, cleaned out the ears of a prosperous-looking fellow
with oiled hair who was reading the
Times of India
upside down. A
skeletal figure with desiccated brown skin hanging from his bones
in folds as if it had melted carried a wooden yoke on his bent shoulders
from which swung two aluminium pails. A formidable woman
upholstered in a tartan sari, her oiled hair tied in a bun as tight as a
black lacquer skullcap, hacked at a giant breadfruit with an ancient
machete, aggressively offering the shorn fleshy chunks to passers-
by.
We were swerving down toward the bay itself now, both sea and
sky mottled with limpid metallic-grey clouds, the air mightily still,
as if uncertain what to do next. A faded red double-decker London
bus careered by, so crowded that its conductor was actually
clambering along a ledge outside, collecting fares through the
glassless windows. Then, suddenly, the Gateway of India loomed
before us, the imposing triumphal arch through which countless
viceroys and visiting dignitaries from the West had first disembarked
onto the subcontinent, many heading, as we were, into the guarded
compound of the stately Taj Mahal Hotel. The Gateway then housed
lepers, urchins, entire tribes of the sick, the hungry, and the homeless
- the orphans of Empire.
