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12
Tim Ho Wan
$
DIM SUM
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A former Four Seasons dim-sum chef recreates his magic in the world's first dim-sum eat-
ery to receive a Michelin star. Get a ticket when you arrive, then go have a wander and
check back in after half an hour, when a table should have become available.
(
2332 2896;
Shop 8, 2-20 Kwong Wa St, Mong Kok; meals $30-50;
10am-9.15pm;
Yau Ma Tei, exit 2A)
Understand
Badass Mah-Jong
On Shanghai St in Yau Ma Tei, you'll see
mah-jong parlours
with signage showing ' ' ('mah-jong entertain-
ment'). In the 1950s the four-player game of mah-jong was so popular that the British, despite their anti-
gambling policy, began issuing licences to mah-jong parlours. There are now a few dozen parlours, down from
150 in their heyday. You may have seen them in Hong Kong-made gangster films as they were once associated
with Triads, the Hong Kong mafia. Now with the police keeping a close eye, they're the civilised and noisy
playgrounds of hardcore players. You can enter for a look, but remember that picture-taking is strictly forbidden.
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