Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
( 2583-3007; frente La Fortaleza; s/d without bathroom incl breakfast US$15/30)
This two-story
wooden house feels like a Swiss chalet. Fine hardwood rooms open onto a terrace with
hammocks and commanding river views. Shame about the shared bathrooms, which look
like they belong in a bus terminal.
Hotel Victoria
( 8697-2509, 2583-0188; hotelvictoria01@yahoo.es; Muelle, 250m E; s/d US$35/46)
The rooms
in the original construction are elegant but a little cramped; however, the spacious rooms
in the new wing are easily the best in town with split-system air-con, shiny wooden floors,
stylish modern bathrooms and private balconies.
HOTEL
$$
Eating
Borders Coffee
( 8408-7688; detras Base Militar; meals US$3.50-13; 7am-10pm)
By the time you read this,
this fun cafe should be settled into its expansive new open-air locale behind the military
base, which was nearing completion at the time of research. There you'll find a full menu
of burgers, pasta, river shrimp and several vegetarian options. It's also a great place for
breakfast. The food is delicious, and the coffee (US$0.50 to $2) wins the unofficial title of
'best in region'.
CAFE
$$
Casa de Huesped Chinandegano
( 2583-3011; Muelle, 240m E; meals US$6-8; 7am-10pm)
Locals come for tasty chicken
plates, but giant shrimp is served here too. It comes perfectly grilled and glazed with gar-
lic butter, garnished with a tomato salad dressed in vinegar and plated with golden
to-
stones
(fried green plantains) and a carved heart of lime. Service is just as superb as the
food. Do not miss it.
NICARAGUAN
$$
Comedor Vanessa
( 8447-8213; Muelle 2c E; meals US$6-7; 11am-9pm)
Perched over the roaring rapids is
one of the river's best restaurants. It serves tasty giant river shrimp, claws and all, and a
number of chicken, beef and pork dishes. It also pours a damn fine
michelada
(beer with
bloody-mary and margarita fixings) if you're in the mood.
NICARAGUAN, SEAFOOD
$$
Getting There & Away
