Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
The community itself is set 2km from the river, but right by the dock you´ll find
Grand
River Lodge
( 8936-3919, 8366-6187;
www.hotelgrandriverlodge.com
; La Esperanza; tents or
hammock US$3, dm/s/d US$7/10/20)
, one of the few backpacker-orientated places on the
river. It is run by affable local boy and veteran cruise-ship employee Marvin, who has
converted his family farm into a rural lodge. The 12 simple thatched-roof huts with
private bathrooms run along a ridge with river views and there are plenty of activities, in-
cluding horseback riding and treks to forested hills inhabited by monkeys. Meals (US$3 to
US$4) are served in the rustic bar-restaurant.
Any San Carlos-El Castillo boat will drop you here (US$3). It's also possible to arrive
by bus from San Carlos (US$1.75), but it's a tough slog though thick mud from the high-
way when its raining.
Boca de Sábalos
POP 800
It feels like that thick jungle looming on its edges is about to reclaim this muddy, dusty
town set at the confluence of the Río San Juan and Río Sábalos (Tarpon River). And
therein lies its appeal. When you lounge on the terrace of your hotel, lodge or guesthouse
at sunset, you'll watch birds fish, and ride end-of-the-day thermals as you hear that famili-
ar, primordial roar of the howler monkeys.
Río Sábalos effectively splits the town in half, with the inexpensive
hospedajes
and
main road on one side, and a smaller community, threaded by a slender footpath past rus-
tic homes and gardens, on the other. It's two córdobas (US$0.10) to cross the canal in a
dugout canoe.
Sights & Activities
Reserva Privada El Quebracho
( 2583-0035;
www.fundaciondelrio.org
;
admission US$5)
Administered by the Fundacíon
del Rio, this 90-hectare property borders the Reserva Biológica Indio-Maíz, and offers a
peek at the region's very big trees, very small frogs, beautiful rivers and wealth of wild-
life. Take a taxi to Buena Vista, and walk the last hour to the reserve, where you can hike
and horseback ride along two trails through primary forest dangling with orchids. If it in-
spires you to stick around, accommodations are available in simple rooms with shared
bathrooms.
NATURE RESERVE
